Off the beaten path: Explore the hidden gems of Western Japan, from Tohoku to Nagano

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Discover a tale of two regions in Japan

According to a new study, Japan was recently named the safest country for solo travelers in 2023, thanks to a high safety rating and a low crime index score. So, why not go off the beaten path a little?

Japan's Tohoku Province may lack the global caché of the country's more famous regions, but it delivers a profoundly rich and memorable experience. Covering the northern end of the main island of Honshu, the province contains six prefectures (akin to counties): Akita, Aomori, Fukushima, Iwate, Miyagi, and Yamagata.

Tohoku's borders are the Pacific Ocean to the east and Sea of Japan to the west. In between, there's an abundance of mountains, monks, myths, shrines, temples, and culinary adventures.

Several hours to the south, the Chubu region's Nagano Prefecture and its hot-springs-loving monkeys are a perfect add-on. 

Photo courtesy of Christine Loomis

Take a bullet train from Toyko to Tohoku

Japan's world-famous bullet trains hurtle along tracks at speeds of over 200 mph, making the 228-mile trip from Tokyo to Sendai, Tohoku’s capital, in just about 90 minutes. These comfortable, clean trains are always a wonderful experience. Be sure to pick a delicious bento box in the station before the journey.

While riding on the East Japan Railway (JR East), you'll see the landscape transform from urban to rural and back again in a blur. If you're paying attention, you might catch a glimpse of the majestic Mt. Fuji on the left side along the way. 

Photo courtesy of Christine Loomis

Sip whisky at a distillery in Sendai

Sendai, in Miyagi Prefecture, is a great launching point for exploring Tohoku. It’s also home to one of Japan’s most famous exports: Nikka whisky (spelled without the “e,” as it is in Scotland). Nikka hosts tours and tastings at its Miyagi distillery, which has been producing the spirit for over 50 years. It's well worth a visit for whisky fans, as well as travelers overnighting in Sendai.

Photo courtesy of Christine Loomis

Explore Akita's Kakunodate and the samurai culture

Three centuries ago, Kakunodate in Akita was home to samurai warriors, who are still honored here today. Kakunodate features great restaurants, museums, and hundreds of stunning cherry trees. (In fact, it's a popular springtime destination, as millions of visitors arrive for the cherry blossom festival.)

One of JR East’s convenient station-adjacent accommodations, Hotel Folkloro Kakunodate, is a great base for visitors who wish to spend a day or two exploring this charming area. 

Photo courtesy of Christine Loomis

Tour the former homes of samurai in Kakunodate

Eighty samurai families once lived along Kakunodate's Bukeyashiki-Dori, a main boulevard with weeping cherry trees. Today, visitors can tour six of the original homes that are open to the public. It's truly a fascinating experience, as two homes belonged to wealthy families, while four smaller, simpler homes showcase the rather modest samurai middle-class life. 

Photo courtesy of Christine Loomis

Admire a variety of crafts in Akita

Akita prefecture’s namesake dogs were originally bred here. Beloved by samurai, the Akita canine image is displayed in various forms and mediums in shops and galleries in the local district. Here, brightly painted kokeshi dolls stand in colorful displays near the delicate and lovely kabazaiku crafts, made from cherry tree bark.

Photo courtesy of Christine Loomis

Visit shrines and temples on Oga Peninsula in Akita

Shrines are Shinto or Hindu, while temples are Buddhist. You'll find both in Tohoku. Set in a dense cedar forest on Akita prefecture’s far western Oga Peninsula, the Shinzan Shrine is fascinating for its unlikely melding of traditional spirituality with the region’s unique mythical creatures. This includes the frightening Namahage, which are boisterous, ogre-like demons that are celebrated in an annual festival.

Photo courtesy of Christine Loomis

Wish for luck at the tree of Good Fortune

Oga Peninsula’s cedar forests are also home to a thousand-year-old kaya tree. Visitors aren’t allowed to get too close to it, but if you can arrange permission from the monks to place your hands on this tree's gnarled trunk, it’s said that good fortune may follow. (Of course, there's no word on how long that might take.)

Photo courtesy of Christine Loomis

Visit the land of the Namahage

Coastal communities in Oga traditionally endured harsh conditions, thriving only if everyone worked hard. Woe to those who didn’t. Legend says that the demon Namahage would come stomping and bellowing down the mountain annually to frighten slackers and misbehaving children into changing their ways. (Do these creatures still roam the mountains? Best to behave and work hard, just in case.)

Photo courtesy of Christine Loomis

Watch traditional mask-carving at Namahage Museum

Oga's Namahage Museum displays a vivid collection of masks. According to museum staff, visitors can watch the very last traditional Namahage mask carver at work here.

Next door, at Oga Shinzan Folklore Museum, mythic Namahage creatures roar to life in a fearsome performance that celebrates this popular legend. Sometimes, Namahage drummers perform at local hotels, so be on the lookout for these one-of-a-kind traditional shows.

Photo courtesy of Christine Loomis

Taste Japanese culinary delights

Cuisine in Japan is art, an edible reflection of the culture — exquisite, sensual, and an ode to orderliness. Tohoku’s cuisine reflects its cold winters, high mountains, and the sea.

Hearty specialties are served in iron kettles, patterned dishes, and lacquered boxes. These include hot pots, regional udon and soba noodles, tuna, scallops, beef, skewers of sticky rice, and petite pickled vegetables.

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Photo courtesy of Christine Loomis

Stay in a traditional tatami-mat guest room

At Hotel Ogaonsen Yuinoyado Bettei Tsubaki in Oga, guests can stay in a Western-style room or a traditional (and seriously comfy) tatami-mat guest room. The hotel provides yukatas (which are similar to kimonos) and slippers in the rooms, and most Japanese guests wear them around the hotel. Do as the locals do and go all in for an immersive experience.

Photo courtesy of Christine Loomis

Explore the Three Sacred Mountains of Dewa in Yamagata

In the town of Tsuruoka in Yamagata, local monks serve as mountain guides and watch over the Three Sacred Mountains of Dewa — Haguro, Yudono, and Gassan. An abundance of seasonal foods, marine life, and 60-plus heritage crops garnered Tsuruoka UNESCO’s esteemed "Creative City of Gastronomy" designation.

There's much to see and do here beyond the outdoors. Don't miss the dazzling jellyfish display at Kamo Aquarium. 

Photo courtesy of Christine Loomis

Discover a treasured pagoda at Mt. Haguro

At Mt. Haguro's base, a tranquil path leads down stone steps to a glen, over a bridge, past a waterfall, and through a thick forest. Guided by mountain monks who are known as yamabushi, hikers arrive at an imposing, five-story pagoda hidden among the cedars. This legendary structure is considered a local treasure, as it has withstood time and harsh winter weather for 600 years. Be sure to stop and admire this impressive piece of architecture that's situated in the middle of a beautiful forest. 

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Photo courtesy of Christine Loomis

Attend public prayer sessions in a Tsuruoka temple

During public prayer sessions at Tsuruoka's Zenpoji Temple, the prayer room fills with rhythmic chanting, drumming, and the muffled clap of sacred pages, seen stacked above.

The monks host multiday retreats for serious spiritual exploration, meditation, and prayer. Guests immerse themselves in daily life at the temple, which includes silence, self-reflection, and a variety of chores.

Photo courtesy of Christine Loomis

Look for the hidden buddha at Zenkoji Temple in Nagano

Moving on to Nagano, it's a must to visit Zenkoji, a striking 7th century temple located in the heart of the city. (The name means "Temple of the Benevolent Light.") The temple is home to a secret buddha statue, hidden for 1,000 years.

Inside the temple, visitors have the opportunity to follow a guide through an underground passageway and feel for a key (more like a knob) on the wall, as they inch through the disorienting darkness. Touch the key, as many do, and it's said that paradise will be yours. 

Photo courtesy of Christine Loomis

Enjoy Nagano's onsen public baths

Japan’s best public baths are onsens, or natural hot springs, like those at Yudanaka Onsen Yorozuya, an inn in the town of Yamanouchi.

Men and women bathe separately, as no swimsuits are permitted. It's a fantastic experience that allows bathers to relax, rest, and feel invigorated. After savoring the sublime pleasure of lounging (even briefly) in these steamy pools, you’ll totally understand the snow monkeys' obsession with the hot springs.

Photo courtesy of Christine Loomis

Slurp some soba noodles in Iiyama, Nagano

Hot or cold, soba (buckwheat) noodles are thick and typically served in a basket and accompanied by flavorful broth, scallions, wasabi, mushrooms, and tempura. When dining on soba noodles, it's important to know that slurping is not only accepted — but expected. The highest-quality noodles are still made by hand, like these at Soba-dokoro Korin, a cafe in Iiyama, Nagano.

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Photo courtesy of Christine Loomis

Watch the snow monkeys soak in the hot springs at Jigokudani Yaen-Koen

Japanese macaques (aka snow monkeys) are the highlight of Jigokudani Yaen-Koen in Yamanouchi, Nagano. They’re free to roam around and frequently choose to relax and soak in the hot springs, which is something they learned decades ago watching guests at a nearby inn. Unfazed by photo-happy humans, the macaques are usually blissed out and enjoying a meditative state in their steamy monkey spa. 

Photo courtesy of Christine Loomis

Journey to an elegant culture

Visitors to Tohoku and Nagano will discover an elegant culture, geographical diversity, and deep spirituality (not to mention the spa-loving macaques). After just one visit, it's easy to imagine that there are many more adventures to be found in these two evocative and beautiful Japanese regions.