Vogue Business

The stretch of earnings reports over the last few weeks has been disappointing. Kering reported a 50% drop in net profits in the first half of 2024. LVMH’s fashion and leather goods were up 1% in the second quarter, short of consensus expectations, while the division’s operating profit was down 6% in the first half. The slowdown of #luxury fashion may be a shock to the stock market, but there is a silver lining: experts say this is exactly what the planet needs from fashion. For #sustainability experts, the takeaway is clear that fashion’s success remains entirely dependent on selling new products. The business model has failed to pivot not only in how brands drive growth but also in how they embed sustainability into their operations. Rachel Cernansky outlines what options brands have: https://lnkd.in/e6F96Tkp

What you missed at Copenhagen Fashion Week. Pamela Anderson! Emily in Paris! Capri pants! Copenhagen Fashion Week draws to a close today, and despite fears the city might lose some of its shine without heavy hitters like #Ganni and #StineGoya this season, premium megabrands like #Pandora and #Zalando picked up the slack, sponsoring CPHFW designers to stage impressive comebacks and debuts, while local labels like The Garment and Rotate rose to the occasion with stand-out shows. Here, Lucy Maguire outlines the key takeaways from #CPHFW this season: https://lnkd.in/eJEhWuyC

#Streetwear fans are shifting spend from sweatpants and sports loafers to poplin pyjamas and fitted linen sheets. In other words, they’re not only elevating their everyday style, but the place where they catch some Zs, too. The business of sleeping in style has prompted a selection of brands — both heritage and contemporary — to refresh core bedroom items with premium quality and interesting colourways. Ryan Bassil explores how brands and retailers are leaning in: https://lnkd.in/e98aCJuX

QASIMI RISING and Lagos Fashion Week partner to scout and mentor regional talent. Since Khalid Al-Qasimi (second son of Sultan bin Muhammad Al-Qasimi, ruler of Sharjah in the UAE) founded QASIMI RISING back in 2015, its creative director, Hoor Al-Qasimi, has taken the helm to honour her brother’s legacy and spearhead new initiatives. The incubator programme utilises Qasimi’s resources to pay homage to the late designer’s memory while empowering talent to expand their international recognition. Now, to streamline the application process for its 2026 edition, #Qasimi Rising has partnered with #LagosFashionWeek to collaboratively scout emerging talent from the region. Ten designers, selected by the fashion week team, will showcase their collections in the Qasimi Rising lounge this October. They will also gain access to one-on-one workshops with mentors and press to address the logistical and creative challenges they may come to heads with. Once successful, the two winners will be mentored for three years, with the option to extend to an additional seven. Alongside undisclosed financial investment, winners benefit from a co-working space and a studio, production, product development, merchandising, marketing and business-function support from a number of industry leaders. Lagos Fashion Week founder and advisor of the programme Omoyemi Akerele says: “This partnership with Qasimi Rising will undoubtedly empower these designers and set them on the path to success.” Looking to learn more about the initiative and its future ambitions #VogueBusiness reporter Maliha Shoaib details everything to know about the partnership: https://lnkd.in/eSBkx9U4

#AI trend forecasting: a game-changer for fashion buyers? “We very often hear buyers say they wish they had a ‘crystal ball’,” says Monisha Klar, director of fashion intelligence at WGSN. Now, thanks to the trend forecasting agency launching its #AI-driven platform, they do. But at what point does tech impede on the art of curation? In fashion, buyers are the original #trend forecasters. Tasked with attending shows and visiting showrooms, buyers rely on their instinct to curate a compelling selection they anticipate will meet future customer demand. Though in a fashion landscape heavily influenced by data, it’s difficult to identify the role it should play. WGSN's data-driven fashion buying platform is banking on data having greater involvement. Its platform aims to assist buyers across the pre-planning, development and in-season hindsight phases by combining its AI predictive analysis — the #WGSNTrendCurve — with intelligence and forecasting. Among other players looking to refine, or redefine, trend prediction is Stitch Fix, as well as parent companies like Coach and kate spade new york owner Tapestry, whose consumer insights team is experimenting with AI (ChatGPT) to supplement its established trend research; luxury conglomerate LVMH is also experimenting. Despite the potential benefits, as evidenced by our algorithm-dictated social media feeds, overreliance on AI tech can go badly for differentiation in fashion. If buyers are shown the same trends to anticipate, are we at risk of repetitive inventory across retailers? #VogueBusiness’s US reporter Madeleine Schulz outlines key caveats brands should note when integrating AI into trend forecasting: https://lnkd.in/eRHf5rWn

Ralph Lauren surpasses expectations: The #TeamUSA outfitter’s international revenue is up 1% in H1 2025. In pre-market trading, Ralph Lauren’s shares jumped 4%, reflecting a sales rise of 1% year-on-year to $1.5 billion. The secret to its success? CEO Patrice Louvet credits the ‘Next Great Chapter: Accelerate’ plan. He noted that first-quarter results were “led by international and positive retail comps across all regions with continued momentum in our global direct-to-consumer (DTC)” channels. This is evidenced by a 5% year-on-year increase in DTC sales, with Europe and Asia leading the charge — up 6% to $479 million and 4% to $391 million, respectively. An unexpected standout amid a regional slowdown for luxury was China, alongside Japan, which too reported profit jumps. CFO Justin Picicci attributed this to China’s increased normalised spend post-pandemic as well as effective marketing campaigns in Japan. The trouble spot? North America. Revenues in the region fell 4% year-on-year to $608 million, driven by a 13% decline in its wholesale channel. Despite designing this year’s Team USA kits for the #Olympic and #Paralympic Games, Louvet acknowledges that domestic demand is crucial for boosting European business through tourism. #VogueBusiness’s US reporter Madeleine Schulz unveils the brand’s strategic acceleration plan behind its success and how it plans to navigate the challenges in North America: https://lnkd.in/e7VYXWbf

Brands are facing the reality of upcoming legislation that requires them to be transparent about their supply chain, including decarbonisation, forced labour and raw materials sourcing. Legislation is widely acknowledged as a step in the right direction for #sustainability. For suppliers, though, gathering this information can mean a lot of extra work. A new report on key legislation in the EU, the US and the UK seeks to answer suppliers’ burning questions. Maliha Shoaib outlines the key takeaways: https://lnkd.in/eXGXz6hQ

Almost every #luxury company that reported its second-quarter earnings shared the same standout market: Japan. The country witnessed strong results regardless of whether the company in question was bucking the luxury slowdown or not. Prada and Hermès, who emerged as winners with overall sales growth of 18% and 13.3% respectively, reported overperformances in Japan, with 65% and 19.5% growth, respectively. Amid a broader luxury slowdown, Japan was, in some cases, the only market that posted positive sales growth while key markets such as China, the US and Europe declined. Why the big spike, and what’s the winning strategy for brands? Maliha Shoaib reports: https://lnkd.in/dShyvBm6

From South Korean shooter Kim Ye-ji’s “ice cold” demeanour to Stephen Nedoroscik being dubbed the “Pommel Horse Guy”, Olympians at this summer’s #Paris2024 Games aren’t just racking up medals — some are becoming viral sensations. With viewership of this year’s #Olympics up 79% on 2021’s Tokyo Games, athletes are creating buzz for the featured sports or the hard #luxury brands that sponsor them, all while readying themselves for potential fashion and beauty deals. Here, Lucy Maguire and Amy Francombe take a look at some of the social media stars brands should be keeping an eye on: https://lnkd.in/d7bB2V99

Is REMAIN poised to be Copenhagen’s next major fashion export? Birger Christensen Collective is rebooting REMAIN under the new creative direction of Martin Asbjørn. Ahead of his sophomore show for the house, #VogueBusiness speaks with him and the label’s CEO and former creative director Denise Christensen. Today, Remain Birger Christensen presents its second show following the reboot under Asbjørn. Following a strong start for Asbjørn and his debut collection, which picked up 15 new retailers, the presentation will look to cement his vision, and given Ganni A/S's absence from Copenhagen Fashion Week this season, it could be the perfect time to gain ground. Due to #Remain being “founded only in 2019, the appointment of Martin… has already seen a new energy run through the brand, with his strong tailoring and take on the silhouette matched with a natural flair for textiles”, says Cecilie Thorsmark, CEO of Copenhagen Fashion Week. “I am excited to see how the creative mind of Martin will entwine with the foundation of Remain as I have no doubt it will only continue to strengthen with each season.” With stakes high, Christensen says this second Remain show is just as integral as the first, as it consolidates the new direction for the brand, “strengthening the identity and message of the brand even more”. Here, #VogueBusiness's senior trends editor Lucy Maguire uncovers the duo’s ambitious plans for the label and weighs up its ability to reach major export level status: https://lnkd.in/ePe7BE-7