In an era where innovation and technology endlessly evolves, our favourite beauty products and make-up gadgets have been transformed. As luck would have it, we don’t have to rely on white lead for powder foundation and crushed berries for lip and cheek tints, as our ancestors did centuries ago. Today, we can trust in modern comforts—safer, more effective alternatives that elevate our skincare routines without the risk of lead poisoning.
Yet, as our vanity arsenal becomes more sophisticated, there’s a yearning to reconnect with simpler pleasures. Amidst one of my daily doom scrolls, an influencer details a perennial beauty product she inherited from her mother: a Moroccan lipstick, a dry terracotta lid that transforms into a bewitching vivid red hue at the touch of her finger. This simple composition of pomegranates and poppies gives us a glimpse into the past and underscores the potential of nature’s treasures. By delving into our own history, we can rediscover the sagacity of past beauty practices and appreciate the timeless products that came before us.
Whether it’s reserving time to unwind in a soothing milk bath or indulging in refreshing beauty rituals, these practices invite an intimate, almost sacred experience that nurtures the soul. Ancient beauty products are also often all-natural, hypoallergenic, and effective, allowing us to slow down and embrace a low-tech approach to self-care—minus the lead poisoning, thanks to modern cosmetic regulations. Picture creamy, exfoliating mud masks and the meditative kindle of incense in the solace of your own home. Despite their simplicity, these rituals are undeniably luxurious. Needless to say, their enduring appeal lies in one simple truth: they work.
These atavistic practices offer a sensorial experience that modern products often lack, and their lasting legacy speaks volumes. Although finding the exact products used in antiquity may be challenging, we’ve curated its modern equivalents.
From traditional make-up to lavish cleansers and fragrances, discover the ancient beauty products that have stood the test of time, below.
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Moroccan lip stain
Crafted from pomegranate bark and dried poppy petals, sunbaked in a terracotta pot, this product is a true virtuoso of ancient beauty. Activated by a dip of brush (or fingertip) in water or oil, this rouge can be applied on the cheeks or lips for a natural tint. Intensely pigmented and quick-drying, this unique lip and cheek tint has remained unchanged through the ages.
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Officine Universelle Buly aker fassi, $18
Available at Officine Universelle Buly.
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Egyptian Kohl
Treasured and used by Cleopatra herself, this ancient eye cosmetic, made traditionally by grinding stibnite, is renowned for achieving a sultry, smoky, deeply pigmented black eyeliner. Although the age-old versions were found to have traces of lead, modern renditions of this product are made lead-free in a multitude of potent hues, while preserving the same intense pigmentation, soft, blendable texture, and long-lasting wear of its ancient counterparts.
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Iranian rose water
Cherished for centuries across the Middle East and West Asia, is a multifaceted extract loved for its sundry uses, especially its place as a natural toner. The best part is that it’s suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, as it delicately cleanses and eradicates impurities. Beyond its cleansing properties, the subtle floral essence of rose water transforms any radiant skincare routine into a soothing, aromatic experience.
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Olive oil soap
Dating back to ancient Persia and Mesopotamia before spreading to the Mediterranean, olive oil soap remains a timeless moisturising full body cleanser that gently treats dry skin conditions without irritation. Now that it’s easily accessible—and unfortunately, more susceptible to imitation—it’s imperative to invest in the real thing. Want something that parallels its ancient origins? Check for formulations crafted from vegetable fats, devoid of colouring, synthetic additives or excessive perfumes.
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Savon de Marseille live oil soap, $10
Available at Savon de Marseille.
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Volcanic pumice stone
Fashioned from cooled and hardened lava, this porous and lightweight sponge-like rock is revered for its talent in polishing the skin and removing dry, dead skin cells from elbows and knees. Believed to be used and discovered by ancient Romans, pumice can be sourced in parts of the world with volcanic activity, such as Italy, Greece and Syria. Its natural composition ensures a gentle yet effective exfoliation that offers unparalleled results compared to any regular body scrub.
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Indian hair incense
In India, bakhoor—a term meaning “fumes” in Arabic—is a traditional incense used to perfume and cleanse the home. Agarwood is believed to provide many health benefits, and by drying hair over the scented fumes, it promises to improve hair strength and volume. The scent lingers luxuriously as the smoke is effortlessly absorbed and infused into every strand.
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Arabian myrrh perfume
Gleaned from a resin extracted from hardened tree sap, myrrh is reaped from a small tree, a species that plants its origins in Arabia, common in other regions such as Somalia and Ethiopia. Chronicled in ancient texts as gifts and utilised as an essential oil to inspire tranquility and meditation, myrrh’s enduring popularity centres around its fragrance. Arabic for ‘bitter’, myrrh is coveted for its unique and addicting scent. Thousands of years after its discovery, it continues to permeate into lush perfume bottles.
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Dead sea mud mask
Rumour has it that Cleopatra slathered on a Dead Sea mud mask frequently to maintain her youthful complexion. As its name suggests, this charcoal-coloured paste—procured in a mineral-rich oasis nestled between Israel and Jordan—works wonders on the skin. From soothing inflammation and treating skin ailments such as acne and eczema, to enhancing skin elasticity and smoothing fine lines and texture, it’s no wonder this age-old remedy has yet to go out of style.
