Think Palma Mallorca, and what springs to mind? All-inclusive sun-drenched summer family holidays by the beach? Parties of raucous hen dos hitting the clubs in nearby Magaluf? The Love Island villa? Well, as a long-term Mallorca lover (who once spent six months living on the island from October to March), I'm here to tell you that this Balearic island, and especially its capital city, Palma, is perfect for a winter weekend break. Yes really. From a burgeoning foodie scene to art galleries galore, walks along the beach to incredible shopping opportunities. Never mind the gorgeous architecture and (normally) clear blue skies and temperatures hovering around 20 degrees, Palma really is one of the best European city breaks in the winter. The lack of heaving crowds makes it all the more special to stroll the beautiful boulevards and really get a feel for the place in the winter months.
And I also might have found the perfect hotel to stay in Palma in the winter, the magnificent Palma Riad…
Set in the heart of the city, this superbly situated 5-star hotel, just off the main shopping street Passeig Del Born and a mere 10-minute walk from the stunning cathedral, is a real hidden gem. Decadent, exotic, yet tranquil, Palma Riad is also very romantic, which is a good thing as it’s one of the city’s foremost adults-only hotels. It’s also perfectly located for a girls’ shopping weekend due to the proximity to all of Palma’s best stores – think Maje, Sandro, American Vintage, and Zara, plus an abundance of incredible local boutiques and a number of brilliant vintage stores for both clothes and interiors.
Design
The interior decor – designed by Barcelona-based Pablo Peyra – is stunning and sumptuous (think deep velvet curtains, golden parrot lampshades, chandeliers, and lacquered furniture) and not only takes inspiration from the Riads of Morocco but pays homage to the city’s Arab occupation from the 10th to 13th centuries. The whole hotel is basked in ambient, dark lighting and smells incredible, thanks to signature scented candles festooned throughout the lobby.
Bedrooms
Each of the 11 suites has a four-poster bed, and many have fireplaces – particularly cosy in winter months. Clever design features throughout, including giant mirrors that double up as televisions! Some of the ensuite bathrooms house mosaic-tiled Hammam baths the size of small swimming pools with double showers – truly the most romantic bathing experience you’ll ever have.
Food and drink
The hotel’s rooftop terrace provides stunning views of Palma’s skyline and the nearby cathedral, and it is lovely to enjoy a sundowner and catch one of the island’s spectacular sunsets.
The cocktail bar on the ground floor is one of Palma’s finest (and serves a mean martini), and the recently opened Palma Riade restaurant serves Mediterranean fusion fayre – the island’s famous Iberico ham is particularly good here, and they always serve the freshest fish of the day such as John Dory and Turbot. Allesandro, the Maitre D is particularly knowledgeable having worked at Barifina and Harrods in London as well. The hotel is also closely linked – literally – to the neighbouring and very famous Hotel Born.
Breakfast, included in the rate, can be taken in the hotel's courtyard with its gorgeous and calming water feature. They are also very amenable to allergies at the restaurant. Service in general is exemplary throughout the hotel, there’s great wifi, complimentary bottled water and Ghd products in all the rooms. It’s also a mere 15-minute taxi ride to the airport.
I discovered you can still find calm in city chaos when I stayed at Spain's first JW Marriott.
Explore the foodie scene
Palma has a burgeoning and brilliant food scene. From food markets and martini bars in the bohemian Santa Catalina district to fine dining by the marina, it has everything on offer, plus some great – and unexpected – Mexican and sushi, too!
Some favourites:
Mercat de Santa Catalina: This indoor food market in hipsterville Santa Catalina is lined with miniature restaurants and tapas bars to sit/stand at and enjoy the freshest fish and finest wines and is a secret haven that must not be missed. I implore you to visit the recently opened Vermoutique, run by a team that boasts Michelin stars at their former haunts but at incredibly reasonable prices. The black squid ink calamari is sublime.
La Rosa Vermuteria & Colmado: Arguably the chicest and one of the best Tapas bars in the heart of Palma.
Bar Abaco: A literal hidden gem, thanks to its secret entrance in a small wooden door that opens up into a Bacchanalian courtyard heaving with stunning flower and fruit bowl displays and the most decadent of cocktail menus.
Restaurant Pesquero: Nestled into prime location in the marina and not too far from Palma’s main shopping streets, this classic Spanish restaurant never fails to deliver the best quality food and atmosphere. A firm favourite.
Primo Taqueria: Situated in the heart of hipsterville, Santa Catalina you’ll find the best tacos in Palma
Japo Santa Catalina: Superb sushi and sake plus its adults only dining.
Shop til you drop
Suivi: my favourite boutique in the whole of Palma stocking a variety of mid-range designer collections expertly curated and displayed (so cool, it doesn't have an online presence) Carrer de Sant Miquel, 20, Centre, 07002, Palma.
Natura: a lovely fashion and gift shop with a number of outposts across the city including the airport.
Rita's House Vintage: particularly good for denim and sportswear.
From fabulous food to freezing cold fjords.
Art and culture
One of the largest and most well-known museums on the island, Es Baluard, is located in the heart of the city and is devoted to modern and contemporary art.
Catedral de Mallorca: the Catedral-Basilica de Santa Maria de Mallorca is arguably the island's most famous attraction. Dating back to 1229, but only completed in 1601, today the cathedral offers a number of impressive tours.
Pilar and Joan Miro Foundation: exhibiting over 7000 works by the popular Spanish artist who lived in Palma from 1956-1983.
Bellver Castle: a unique circular fortress with panoramic views of Palma and its surroundings.
Museum of Sacred Art: with more than 100 years of history this is the island’s oldest museum, first opened in February 1915.
Nearby visits outside Palma
Portixol: the nearby, charming and very chic fishing village of Portixol is a must-visit for a drink and a bite to eat and, if you’re brave enough in the winter, a dip in the sea. (The med in winter is nowhere near as chilly as back home mind you, with temperatures around 15 degrees). Take a 5 minute taxi or a 30 minute stroll along the sea front.
Eat at Izizi Nunnak chic and cheerful waterside restaurant with incredible burgers.
Drink at Hotel Portixol - fantastic cocktails by the pool, impeccable service and chic atmosphere
Hiking in the UNESCO World heritage protected Serra de Tramuntana mountains.
Head to Alaro, 25 minutes by car, north of Palma to enjoy the fresh mountain air and a range of stunning and clearly signposted hiking trails. Visit the Castel d’Alaro- on the second highest peak on the island – and the famous Es Verger ‘Lamb Restaurant’ a hikers’ refuge restaurant made famous by Rick Stein, who filmed an episode of his BBC TV show here and declared it ‘the best lamb he’d ever tasted’.
Historic mountain train ride Palma to Soller.
Built in 1912, this mahogany-clad train takes you through the Serra de Tramuntana mountains up a dizzying amount of bends to the stunning and popular coastal town of Soller on the west of the island, where you can take the local tram to nearby Port de Soller. (Note the train runs a reduced service during the winter and doesn’t run in January.)
Price per night: starting from £231 a night
Address: Palma Riad, Carrer Sant Jaume 5, 07012, Palma de Mallorca