I'm a relatively novice skier, having only been on two ski trips previously – but ahead of my visit to St. Moritz, the reputation of the luxurious ski resort wasn't lost on me. Its reputation preceded it, conjuring up words like opulence, glamour, and old-money chic. I wasn't sure what to expect.
But as I boarded the first train from Zurich airport to the main train station, I quickly realised I was in for an extraordinary journey. I travelled the entire journey to the mountains on the train, starting at Zurich main station where I boarded the train to Chur, before changing for The Rhaetian Railway, a UNESCO world heritage route – one of the most celebrated scenic railway journeys.
The UNESCO-listed ride weaves through stunning landscapes, charming valleys and majestic glaciers – along the way, I passed over 196 bridges and through 55 tunnels, covering an 80-mile stretch of history and natural beauty across the Albula and Bernina railway lines which run between Switzerland and Italy.
Three hours later, I reached my destination. St. Moritz, which is known for its glamorous past, is experiencing a renaissance of sorts – drawing a younger crowd eager to explore its air of heritage and exclusivity. Surprisingly, only a fraction of its visitors come for skiing – a mere 40%, in fact. The rest are here for many other attractions – one such thing is the Sun Ice Festival, now in its third year, which transforms the town into a hub of techno-loving enthusiasts, drawing a staggering 30,000 revellers from around the globe.
Then there's the snow polo, which could be described as St. Moritz's official sport. The typically grassy game finds its frozen arena in this ultra-luxe Swiss ski town, where the annual Snow Polo World Tournament, which takes place on frozen lake St.Moritz, is now a cornerstone of St. Moritz's winter calendar.
But partying and winter sports aside, there's a quieter side to St. Moritz that beckons for those seeking a more laidback experience. It's a place where leisurely brunches morph seamlessly into afternoons of shopping and gallery-hopping. The charm of the town itself becomes the main attraction – from its cobblestone streets to its sun-drenched promenades.
The revival of the Grace La Margna, St Moritz
Grace La Margna, a landmark building with Art Nouveau details, stands proudly on the hill with sweeping panoramic views of Lake St. Moritz and the majestic Swiss Alps. The hotel's rich history adds an eclectic charm, with a blend of heritage glam and all the modern five-star comforts expected by today's travellers.
St. Moritz has seen no new hotel openings in the last five decades, making La Margna's revival particularly significant. Positioned prominently on the steep hill, it greets visitors arriving by train, serving as an architectural introduction to the town. The hotel, dating back to 1906, fell into disrepair in the sixties before undergoing an extensive renovation.
There are 74 rooms and suites spread across two distinct wings – the renovated ‘La Margna’ wing and the newly-constructed ‘Grace’ wing. The meticulously renovated La Margna wing pays homage to the hotel's history, blending its protected original features with modern touches in keeping with the design of the building. Retaining its original Art Nouveau elements, most of the rooms have panoramic views of the lake and the breathtaking mountain views.
In contrast, the newly constructed Grace Wing presents a more modern offering. Designed with sleek lines and minimalist accents, there's still a laidback elegance to each space – and those incredible views of the local landscape, of course.
Art enthusiasts regularly head to St Moritz, too, where the annual NOMAD travelling fair brings together gallerists, artists and collectors from all over the world. Such is the hotel's dedication to art, it hosted NOMAD before it had officially opened its doors. On the hotel walls, you will see Alpine landscapes depicted in oil by Adam Attew, the hotel's inaugural Artist in Residence, alongside Banksy-inspired artworks and sculptures.
As for eating, there's plenty of choice. I loved the mediterranean-meets-alpine cuisine at The View, while Max Moritz is a must-visit for a traditional Swiss fondue. There's also more low-key dining spaces such as The Living Room – for a casual, cosy meal by the open fire – or The Stack Brasserie for classic dishes. I was truly spoiled.
And despite its boutique size, La Margna is also home to the largest hotel bar in St. Moritz, the impossibly chic N°5. Serving as the lively hub of the hotel, it's buzzing with live music at the weekends – and there's every cocktail imaginable on offer.
Unlike its local counterparts, Grace La Margna eschews formal dress codes in favour of a more relaxed and welcoming atmosphere – so there's no need to pack your black tie. The predominantly young staff notably wear matching white trainers, in fact. It was this laidback culture that made me fall for this timeless hotel, which is truly young at heart.
I spent many relaxing mornings enjoying a swim at the beautiful spa at the hotel, which is a warm and cocooning space amid its icy surroundings. Water is a focal point, and at the heart of La Margna's spa experience – a favourite feature of mine was the ultra-relaxing Wellness Shower, using light and hydratherapy for the dreamiest shower I've ever had.
In the words of Rachel Green: “Shoop, shoop, shoop.”
Skiing in St. Moritz
The slopes of St. Moritz are ideal for thrill-seekers, with 88 varied trails set against the stunning backdrop of the Alps. There are plenty of useful resources to be found from local tourist board St Moritz Tourism for help navigating the town and its offerings, too. Personally, I opted for a lesson with a private ski instructor from the St Moritz Ski School, which gave me plenty of confidence. Whether you're a seasoned skier or a novice like myself, St. Moritz promises an unforgettable skiing getaway filled with warmth and hospitality.
SWISS flies to Zurich or Geneva from major London and regional airports. SWISS transports your first set of ski or snowboard equipment and boots free of charge. The Swiss Travel Pass offers international visitors to Switzerland unlimited travel on consecutive days across the STS rail, bus and boat network.