16 best products for hyperpigmentation and dark spots
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Even with the best products for hyperpigmentation in hand, dealing with discolouration can be a lesson in patience. It can manifest as dark spots, brown patches, or an all-around uneven skin tone, and — depending on what you’re working with — can take what feels like ages to fade. And while your usual skincare routine can definitely help improve your skin’s overall appearance, tackling discolouration like acne scars and sun spots can require a little more strategy, especially when you’re working with topical, over-the-counter formulas.
“To understand hyperpigmentation, you first need to understand the role of melanin,” says Elizabeth Barbalich, Founder and CEO of Antipodes. “Melanin is what gives your skin its colour. Melanin production is known as ‘melanogenesis’. Too much melanogenesis can cause your skin to become uneven and discoloured – that’s hyperpigmentation.”
Best hyperpigmentation products at a glance:
- Best Overall: Murad Rapid Dark Spot Correct Serum, WAS £82 NOW £66.42
- The Runner-Up: Dr. Barbara Strum Brightening Serum, £95
- Best Hydrating: E.L.F. Youth Boosting Advanced Night Retinoid Serum, £22
- Best Affordable: The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%, £9.90
Meet the experts:
- Deanne Robinson, MD, board-certified dermatologist
- Elizabeth Barbalich, founder and CEO of Antipodes
- Pauline Prescott, founder and CEO of Formulae Prescott
- Erum Ilyas, MD, board-certified dermatologist
So, what triggers it? “There are a few ways that melanin production is triggered into overdrive,” says board-certified dermatologist Deanne Robinson, MD. “These are primarily sun exposure, hormonal changes, age, skin injury, and inflammation,” she says; this results in post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), which is the dark spots that pop up after a breakout, and melasma, which is driven by hormones and worsens with sun exposure. Anyone can experience hyperpigmentation, but it’s this overproduction of melanin that explains why people of colour are most prone to it.
That’s why coming up with an effective treatment requires being strategic with your active ingredients. Unlike when you choose the best moisturiser—which is mostly in charge of hydrating skin and supporting the skin barrier — tackling discolouration calls for a more targeted lineup, such as retinol, glycolic acid, vitamin C, and the newer, more under-the-radar tranexamic acid. These skin care ingredients can tackle excess pigment at various points in its formation, shutting it down before it reaches the surface.
In addition to a dedicated hyperpigmentation serum or treatment, it’s essential to stick with skincare products that are already in your routine—namely, sunscreen, since sun damage is a major contributor to discolouration. Skipping it could mean self-sabotage. “Although over time with the natural turnover of skin cells, hyperpigmentation can potentially fade over the course of three to six months, the reality is that there are often environmental factors that may keep it around,” says Erum Ilyas, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology Group. “UV or other light exposure such as blue light can contribute to persistent pigmentation.” Plus, sun exposure contributes to fine lines and wrinkles—so SPF is a win-win no matter your concern.
With that in mind, here’s what you need to know to put together your plan for glowing skin and a more even tone, stat.
How quickly can I fade hyperpigmentation or remove dark spots?
“Treating hyperpigmentation takes time and patience – consistently with products will yield gradual but significant results,” explains Pauline. “Don't be discouraged if you don't see immediate results, as improvement often happens over weeks to several months.”
How fast treatment works also depends on the cause of the hyperpigmentation, and which products you're using to treat it, adds Dr. Robinson. “An over-the-counter lightening product won’t have much, if any, impact if the trigger is hormonal shifts that haven’t stabilised, or if you’re still lying in the sun without SPF protection.”
What about different skin tones?
“When addressing hyperpigmentation, it's important to consider that different skin tones may respond differently to treatments,” says Pauline. “People with paler skin tones are generally more susceptible to sun damage and should prioritise sun protection to prevent further darkening of spots. Those with darker skin tones more prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation may prefer a gentle approach, avoiding aggressive treatments that might irritate the skin.”
Elizabeth also stresses the importance of sun protection for darker skin tones, too. “Hyperpigmentation is very common on Black skin tones due to the amount of melanin in the skin. SPF is absolutely crucial – it helps to prevent hyperpigmentation and dark spots, and can also help to fade existing ones.”
What ingredients should you look out for?
There are three primary groups of hyperpigmentation-zapping ingredients. The first are those that halt pigment production: “This can occur by blocking tyrosinase, an enzyme responsible for melanin production,” says Dr. Ilyas. These ingredients include azelaic acid, vitamin C, kojic acid, and alpha-arbutin. “Peptides are also key,” adds Elizabeth. “Peptides are short chains of amino acids, which are the building blocks of skin. They carry messages to your skin, so they’re incredibly valuable in skincare. I use a stable peptide called Melanostatine 5 which blocks tyrosinase.”
(There’s also hydroquinone, which, due to its potentially hazardous effects, is usually excluded across the board these days.)
Next are those that increase cell turnover, like retinol, glycolic acid, and salicylic acid. “By increasing the rate of exfoliation, the goal is to accelerate how quickly the excess pigment present in the skin can be removed,” Dr. Ilyas says. As such, an exfoliating treatment or face scrub can help, but only in moderation, she says: “Exfoliation can play a role in managing hyperpigmentation but there is a need to strike a balance, as excess exfoliation can also contribute to excess pigmentation.”
And finally, some ingredients, such as niacinamide and tranexamic acid, block the transfer of pigment from the pigment-producing cells to your skin cells. “By reducing how much melanin is transferred, the hope is that less melanin will spread through the skin cells,” says Dr. Ilyas.
Whether you find them in brightening face cleansers, exfoliating toners, actives-packed face serums, or all of the above, the best products for hyperpigmentation should deliver on at least one of these three points.