11 best BHA exfoliants for smooth and glowing skin
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BHA exfoliants are up there with the likes of retinol and acids like glycolic, in that to newcomers, they can seem incredibly intimidating. And yet, they are some of the most effective skincare heroes to add to your collection – yes, even if you have sensitive skin. You only need to know how, when and why to use them.
BHA (which stands for Beta Hydroxy Acid) is usually used as a shorthand for salicylic acid; the most commonly known – and used – BHA in cosmetic products. As somebody who can't get enough of quality skincare formulations that feature BHA (be it a toner, a face serum, masks or a good old cleanser with salicylic acid), I consider myself the biggest advocate for investing in BHA exfoliants – particularly if you want to address excess oil or blemishes and boost the skin's overall radiance.
If you're new to the world of BHAs (or simply need a reminder), I've spoken to the experts to reveal all you need to know, and have selected the very best products to spend your hard-earned ££ on.
Meet the experts:
- Dr Mariana Noy, Consultant Dermatologist at Montrose London
- Dr Maryam Zamani, founder of MZ SKIN and Oculoplastic Surgeon
Best BHA exfoliants at a glance:
- Best BHA exfoliant overall: Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant
- Best affordable BHA exfoliant: The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid Serum
- Best BHA exfoliant for teenagers: Revolution Skincare London, 2% Salicylic Acid
- Best BHA exfoliant for mature skin: Murad AHA/BHA/Retinoid Daily Clarifying Peel
What is BHA and what are its benefits?
As mentioned, BHA stands for Beta Hydroxy Acid, and salicylic acid is the most commonly known and used. “It is found in many products including moisturisers, cleansers, scrubs and peels,” explains Dr Mariana. “BHAs help the skin’s natural process of shedding dead skin cells by loosening the bonds between them as well as working inside the pores to unclog them.”
She says: “In addition to smoothing rough skin, BHAs can also help improve oily skin, reduce inflammation and have been reported to have anti-bacterial properties.”
Dr Maryam adds that BHAs are therefore, “particularly effective for addressing issues related to acne, excess oil, and blackheads.”
What is the difference between AHA and BHA?
“BHAs and AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) are both skin exfoliants but have some important differences,” begins Dr Mariana. The biggest one is that, “AHAs are water soluble and therefore act on the skin surface alone, while BHAs are oil soluble and act on the skin surface and inside the pore.”
“This is why BHAs such as salicylic acid are good for unclogging pores, improving oily skin and the skin’s overall texture, while AHAs primarily focus on sun related skin damage and wrinkles.”
While salicylic is the most commonly known BHA, you'll likely have heard of several AHAs. These include “glycolic acid (derived from sugar cane), lactic acid (derived from milk), citric acid (from citrus fruits), and tartaric acid (from grapes),” explains Dr Maryam.
Is BHA suitable for all skin types?
Again, there is a difference here between AHA and BHA usage, says Dr Maryam. “AHAs are generally suitable for normal to dry skin types. They can be more irritating for sensitive or acne-prone skin, whilst BHAs are particularly suitable for oily and acne-prone skin.”
But why is this? “Because BHAs are oil soluble, they act on the skin surface and inside the pores. They are therefore particularly useful for those with acne and blocked pores, oily skin, rough or bumpy skin and fine wrinkles,” explains Dr Mariana.
How to use BHA on sensitive skin
“BHAs are often less irritating than AHAs and may be a better choice for individuals with sensitive skin,” notes Dr Maryam.
Both doctors recommend starting at a low concentration of BHA (below 2%) and working your way up to higher options as skin gets used to the ingredient. That said, it's worth testing a small patch of skin prior to use. Dr Maryam encourages beginning with using a BHA exfoliant two to three times a week, and opting for a wash off formula (such as a cleanser), which is less likely to cause irritation. Also remember that for use with all skin types, you should aim to use BHA at night and always apply SPF the following morning, as this acid can increase sun sensitivity.