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Most of us have a certain impression of natural-color hair and beard dye: The risk of using these is that they can produce a block-color result, almost like you rubbed shoe polish on your dome. Suddenly, you’re the guy who had some sparse grays on Friday but chock-black hair on Monday. Your friends, coworkers, and even total strangers will know what you’re covering up.
If you'd rather embrace the gray hairs, we're all for it. But there’s no shame in wanting to cover it up, either. And for the most natural-looking results, you will want a subtler dye in the first place. That’s where demi-permanent hair dyes for a salt-and-pepper look correct the course.
Demi-Permanent Dye, Explained
Anything that produces a solid block color is likely a “permanent” dye, which won’t fade out in the wash. Demi-permanent dyes, on the other hand, fade gradually over time and last about 30 washes.
Demi-permanent dues also produce a more subtle change, by finding a nice “blending ground” between the dark pigments and the gray tones. It won’t paint over your natural non-gray strands, nor will it make the grays look exactly the same color as your darkest hairs. Instead it will give them a midpoint gradient that subtly masks the grays; if you have naturally medium brown hair, for example, the grays might land a shade or two lighter but will still be brown.
If you are trying to mask gray body hairs, then demi-permanent dyes also work much better than the permanent options.
How to Find Demi-Permanent Dyes
The best way to figure out the “permanence” level of a dye is to look for indicators from the brand. Terms like ”subtle blending” and “natural results” are a good lead, but not always a guarantee. Some will flat out say “demi-permanent”, too. (Don’t use anything “semi-permanent,” by the way, as it’s meant to rinse out fully after a few washes.)
Many demi-permanent dyes will switch the primary dyeing agent in their formula. Most permanent dye options will use PPD or PTDS (on the ingredients labels, these will be listed as paraphenylenediamine or para-toluenediamine sulfates, respectively). PPD in particular is the most common dye agent—and is also the most likely to cause adverse skin reactions. For this reason, a subtler ingredient has emerged and is commonly found in demi-permanent dyes: HPPS, which stands for Hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine sulfate.
PTDS is used in both permanent and demi-permanent options, so you’ll want to make sure the brand advertises how the results look once applied and rinsed clean.
When Are Permanent Dyes OK?
Let's be clear: Many permanent dye options are perfectly fine. If you’re covering a mostly gray beard or trying to intentionally change your hair color, then you almost certainly need something permanent. I also like to use permanent beard dyes in stubble-length beards. The hair is usually so short that any slight differences won’t be perceivable to the passing eye.
Many permanent-dye brands are also getting better at finding a subtler, natural-looking result. Even Just for Men is subtler in the past few years than before.
The Best Demi-Permanent Dye for Salt-and-Pepper Hair
While demi-permanent dyes aren’t just for the salt-and-pepper transition phase, they are certainly the most natural option.
I do think there’s one brand that towers over the others in this field: True Sons, whose HPPS-powered foam gives you really well-blended results and can be used head to toe. The product never oxidizes and can be used to completion, unlike many dyes that essentially expire after the first use.
Start with their dye kit if you have salt-and-pepper hair, or if you are just trying to visually thicken a blonde-ish beard with some darker color.
True Sons hair and beard dye foam kit
Then, if you are trying to cover a bunch of grays (but not an entire head of hair yet), you can add some dye booster drops into the foam for slightly bolder results.