Visiting LJ’s BBQ in Brenham is reminiscent of an Edward Hopper painting, if Mr. Hopper were lucky enough to have spent more time in the Lone Star State. The side of a small building off a main road leading into downtown is adorned with a weathered mural and steel-cut sign. The smell of Post Oak wafts from the smoker room to the side of the brick building. Step inside, and as you take your place in line you’re greeted by a collage of artifacts that tell the story of a business ingrained in its community: newspaper clippings on the wall, photos of the LJ’s team with notable visitors, and unique keepsakes from big community events like Troubadour and Red Dirt Festivals.
When your turn comes, you step up to the window to order from the meat cutter, and things get more serious. His jovial welcome belies the smoky treasures he is charged with slicing and dispensing. You might get a complimentary taste of the barky burnt ends from a fresh brisket, but even if you don’t, the intoxicating smell delivers a potent preview of the delectable options at your beck and call.
When your plate or tray has been assembled to your satisfaction, you pay the cashier (who might be one of your pitmasters), choose a table in the cozy dining room or the outdoor area, and enjoy the divine product of Post Oak smoke, time, and years of dedication to the craft of Texas BBQ.
All of this is the result of a partnership between Matt Lowery, his cousin Leah, and her husband Corey Cook. Not that they had some grand plan with a specific vision to be a Top 50 BBQ Joint when they started out.
They all grew up in the area known as the baseball capital of Texas, the home of Blue Bell ice cream, and endless fields of bluebonnets in the spring. Its location between Central Texas and the Space Coast meant they were accustomed to a diverse range of foods, from barbeque to Southern to Mexican flavors.
“I took a trip to Franklin Barbeque in Austin, and I was like “WHOA that is not like anything I’ve ever had.’ The experience inspired Matt and his dad to get a smoker for the backyard and learn how to cook BBQ. “The flavor opened my mind to what could be done with BBQ.”
So Matt started cooking for friends and family in his backyard experimenting with smoking brisket, sausage, and ribs. Over time, through a lot of trial and error, Matt’s cooks got better, and more people came over to enjoy the delicious experiments, which to this day stay true to the Central Texas method with heavy black pepper and just enough salt where you can taste it.
Then came a break: the opportunity to take a catering gig, big enough that he couldn’t do it on his own. So, he asked Leah’s husband, Corey, to help out. The longtime friends worked great together and everyone at the event loved the food.
Then, as Matt tells it, “We ended up at a little local beer garden, celebrating a good day, and we talked to the owner about doing a pop-up at his bar. He said yes, and we started there, from very humble beginnings.”
They decided to name the operation LJ’s after Matt and Leah’s grandmother, Laura Jean, because she’d be so proud of them building something together, with a focus on serving the community the best plate of food they possibly can for a fair price, and treating everyone like family.
Their pop-up shifted to Home Sweet Farm, with a few tables & just a few briskets on the borrowed smoker each weekend. But they kept delighting everyone who ate. Lines got a bit longer, and they were putting more briskets on the pit. The team just kept improving and learning how to do everything by just doing the work.
Soon enough, they got a new smoker and opened their own space. They started getting invited to participate at BBQ Festivals throughout the state, where they fostered connections with the famously tight-knit community of pitmasters, and cross-pollinated ideas on everything from cooking techniques to flavors to experiment with. “Festivals are our most fun weekends of the year,” said Matt. “We get to see all our friends, have fellowship with each other and try their food and get inspired to try new things.”
All those experiences helped Matt and Corey continue to grow their skills and their reputation. And they are grateful to incorporate dishes and flavors that their team – like the GM Josh and one of the head cooks Matt “Jr.” – also grew up with and bring to the table, with the same commitment to excellence.
When you finally get your first bite of LJ’s BBQ, the results of that journey are easy to taste. You’d be hard-pressed to find a better 3-meat Texas Trinity plate anywhere in the world, but there’s also keep it fresh and fun with creative weekly specials. From inventive sausages like a mac & cheese stuffed all-beef link to the Saturday Special Burrito, or a smoked hamburger steak with onions & gravy, the team uses trimmings from the quality beef brisket, pork ribs, and other proteins that are the backbone of the business to deliver inventive flavors and offer affordable options.
That customer-friendly mindset is not surprising because everything Matt and Corey do at LJ’s starts with how they can best serve the community. They’ve worked with dozens of local businesses and helped out with youth sports teams, and have cooked for countless gatherings around town. After Hurricane Harvey left devastation in its wake for many of their neighbors in Southeast Texas and the National Guard stationed troops in the Brenham area, LJ’s cooked up a feast and brought some local flavor for the tons of people who were in town to help the community rebuild.
Matt and Corey aim to be as loyal to the regular customers as they’ve been to LJ’s. And in turn, the regulars who live around town – and even some from Japan, Italy, and Seattle who come to visit every time they’re in Texas – are quick to show their appreciation, which makes it all worthwhile for Corey and Matt. “It’s the best feeling when someone says that they haven’t had BBQ that good in a long time.”
Plan a visit to Brenham for a reminder that elite Texas ‘que still comes from small towns where people are focused on taking care of their own…but they’re happy to put a smile on your face, wherever you’re from.
LJ’s BBQ is one of eight prominent pits from across the state of Texas that will be delivering samples at the Round Rock Express Brisket Bash, benefiting the John Brotherton’s Pitmaster Foundation. Learn more and get tickets HERE to the Express game on July 19 (requires $20 Brisket Bash add-on).
