Do you know how long this local hot dog stand has been around?
BALDWINVILLE — It doesn’t matter whether the groundhog sees his shadow or not each year in early February, or what date the Red Sox take to the field at Fenway, residents of Greater Gardner know what the true harbinger of spring is.
It’s when a small ad appears each year in The Gardner News that announces: “Now open for the Season – Lee’s Hot Dog Stand.”
For over 75 years, Lee’s Hot Dog Stand has become an institution in these parts, and the patrons who belly up to the cuisine each day would heartily agree.
Fay F. Lee and his wife, Harriet, first opened a small hot dog stand, known as the Corner Cupboard, on Central Street in Baldwinville in 1937. According to family members, Harriet won $100 one night at bingo and decided to parlay her winnings into a hot dog stand, which soon became a favorite at lunchtime frequented by workers of the nearby paper mills.
The stand was closed for a time during World War II as Fay went to work in the local paper mill. Good fortune would strike the Lee family again when Fay came home one Friday night with a bag full of money after winning the weekly paper mill lottery.
They decided to put this windfall into refurbishing the business, and soon Lee’s Hot Dog Stand – as we still know it today – was opened in 1944.
Nestled between the B&M railroad bridge on Central Street and Mill Street, Lee’s became more than simply a local landmark. Five generations of wiener lovers have been brought up on the famed foot-long hot dogs in the grilled buns.
Initially, hot dogs could be had for 15 cents each, and Harriet devised her secret formula for making the hot dogs taste so good. She’d pour Wesson Oil on the grill and let them simmer for their juicy and delectable taste.
Eventually, the Lees added ice cream sundaes and shakes to the menu, along with soda, coffee, chocolate milk and candy bars. Generations of Baldwinville youth paid their way through college or simply earned some spending money by working summers at the stand.
In April of 1972, Fay decided that he had enough of the business and decided to retire, selling the business to Ken and Doris Stewart – who kept the name intact.
Sadly, retirement only lasted four months for Fay, who died suddenly in August of 1972. To honor his memory, the Stewarts closed the stand on the day of Fay’s funeral in Baldwinville, but they realized later it may not have been what the former owner wanted.
During his burial at Greenlawn Cemetery, a mini-twister with whirling winds struck Baldwinville and toppled over several trees near the cemetery. One of the trees came crashing down on a canopy at the gravesite while the mourners were there.
Whether this was a coincidence or perhaps Fay’s way of saying, “Get back to work,” will likely never be known.
After 12 years of ownership, the Stewarts sold the business to Ronald Davidson, who owned Lee’s from 1983 until 1997. At that time, Brian Twohey left his job at the Fox Run to take over Lee’s. His brother, Craig, who later owned King Phillip Restaurant in Phillipston, also worked at the Fox Run.
The stand has changed over the years to include seafood specials like whole clams, haddock, shrimp and scallops, as well as French fries, onion rings, kielbasa and ice cream treats.
However, the hot dogs have never changed over the years.
For the record, Lee’s sells skinless Kayem hot dogs, but they are 9 inches and not foot-longers. By the way, if you order a hot dog “with the works” at Lee’s, it means that it comes with mustard, onions and relish. Ketchup only comes if you order “with the works and ketchup.”
And the secret that keeps the hot dog-buying public returning to Lee’s year after year?
“The grilled roll has a lot to do with it,” said the late Brian Twohey several years ago. “There’s no comparison with the grilled roll over the steamed roll. Also, we take pride in the quality of our hot dog.”
Just take a trip by the place at lunchtime and look at the clientele who frequent Lee’s each day.
You’ll have the white-collar worker who emerges from his air-conditioned town car during a leisurely lunch, to the blue-collar guy who grabs a few dogs to go before heading back to the work bench. Campers or hungry swimmers from Lake Dennison or Beaman Pond will towel off and make a beeline for Lee’s.
There’ll be fathers taking their young children for a taste of the good old days from their memory. Then you’ll find the middle-aged patron who’ll pick up their own elderly parents and head to Lee’s for a mid-summer’s day treat.
Brian Twohey got out of the business in 2016 and passed away the following year. His nephew, Ryan Twohey – the son of Craig – took it over April 28, 2017, and operated Lee’s until he tragically lost his life in a car accident in January 2019 at the age of 27.
Last year and this, as a tribute to his son, Craig Twohey has opened Lee’s and also expanded the business.
This past spring, the parking lot area was expanded to include 12 more spots and the business now accepts credit and debit cards.
As usual, Lee’s does a brisk daily business during business hours from 11 in the morning to around 8 or 8:30 p.m. Traditionally, the place usually stays open until around Columbus Day.
“I hear the stories from so many people all the time about coming to Lee’s with their parents or grandparents,” Craig Twohey said. “Then some of those same people bringing their kids or grandkids here today.”
Comments and suggestions for Then and Now can be sent to Mike Richard at mikerichard0725@gmail.com or in writing to Mike Richard, 92 Boardley Road, Sandwich, MA 02563.