Detention wouldn’t be such a bad prospect at this Victorian schoolhouse, deep in the countryside, a 30-minute drive from Chester. It’s now a buzzy boozer where those teachers of yesteryear might be surprised to find a gin-making copper still centre stage in the old classroom. “The Chum”, as it’s known, loves its gin, with 366 varieties on offer as well as interesting ales from local microbreweries. Straw boaters and boarders’ trunks nod to its previous incarnation, while leather button-backed armchairs beside blazing fires, exposed brick interiors and sky-high sash windows keep interiors stylish. Dinner might be devilled kidneys or wagyu beef burgers, before you head to the cosy bedrooms in the headmaster’s former home.
Overall score 7/10
Main photo: the bar at the Cholmondeley Arms in Cheshire
Rooms and suites
Score 7/10
The six bedrooms, named after fictional and real teachers, were refreshed in 2022 and are homely and inviting. Mr Bird, in honour of owner Tim Bird’s father, is the pick of the bunch. Bird senior was a headmaster and there is a sepia photograph of his graduation class from Lancaster Training College in 1949 hanging proudly in his room. Like the others, it is decorated with shabby-chic charm, dotted with antique and reproduction furniture, bric-a-brac and vintage lampshades, and warmed up with Farrow & Ball colour palettes and coir flooring. Original features such as fireplaces and listed casement windows add character but, as is often the case, come with caveats — there’s the odd bit of mould between the lead. Professor Dumbledore has French doors leading on to the garden and Mr Chips has a bath in the bedroom.
Food and drink
Score 8/10
As soon as you step inside, you want to eat here. There is a fabulous conviviality thanks to the Birds who have worked hard to develop an authentic community hub. The delicious smells of home-cooked food coming from the kitchen doesn’t hurt either. The menu is shamelessly crowd-pleasing and confidently flirts with both traditional dishes and modern tastes, while portions are “up-north” generous. Field mushrooms in a creamy white wine sauce is plate-licking good, seared duck breast in red wine jus is satisfyingly rich. There are also pheasant faggots and steak and kidney pies for the pub purists. Your main dilemma will be choosing between Yorkshire halloumi fries with sour cream and salsa, and thyme and sea salt chips with bloody mary ketchup. Oh go on, order both. Service is friendly and efficient; it is well staffed so the team has time to chat with guests.
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What else is there?
Score 5/10
The pub holds weekly gin-tasting classes and occasional live music, and you can book in-room spa treatments.
Where is it?
Score 8/10
It is part of the Cholmondeley Estate, surrounded by rolling farmland and prosperous Cheshire villages. Cholmondeley Castle’s 70 acres of gardens are colourful year round and worth a visit (they open on March 10). The Sandstone Trail is a popular 55km path that follows sandstone ridges. It starts in Frodsham, which is 40 minutes’ drive from the pub, and ends in Whitchurch just over the Shropshire border. There’s horse racing and shopping in Chester too.
Price B&B doubles from £135
Restaurant mains from £16
Family-friendly Y
Dog-friendly Y
Accessible N
cholmondeleyarms.co.uk
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