Louis Vuitton honors Virgil Abloh at fashion show: Watch the somber, whimsical tribute
MIAMI BEACH, Fla. â Louis Vuittonâs first ever U.S. fashion show turned into a somber yet whimsical tribute to groundbreaking designer Virgil Abloh days after his death.
The Miami menswear event, an unofficial kickoff to the prestigious Art Basel fair, had been in the works for months. Guests were ferried by yachts to the star-studded affair held on an island. Celebrity attendees, including Kim Kardashian West and her daughter North, Ye, the rapper formerly known as Kanye West, model Bella Hadid, Ricky Martin, Rauw Alejandro, Joe Jonas, Maluma and Pharrell, arrived in sleek LV monogrammed silver speedboats.
Kid Cudi and Erykah Badu performed at an after-party. âHey Virgil,â she yelled at the start of her set, later saying âwe want to see you fly.â
Abloh, who died Sunday after a lengthy battle with cancer, was known for pushing boundaries as the head of the legendary French fashion house, thanks to his childlike curiosity and an eagerness to instill a sense of playfulness. His groundbreaking fusions of streetwear and high couture made him one of the most celebrated tastemakers.
A focal point of the show was a giant, red LV monogrammed hot air balloon that puffed flames as Ablohâs voice was heard in the background.
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The brandâs CEO Michael Burke said Ablohâs wife and family wanted the show to go on. He had just spoken to the young designer on Saturday night, describing the inspiration for the show as a coming of age of sorts because âinspiring future generations was very important to Virgil.â
âWe had imagined it all and he was distraught not to be here in person,â Burke said.
Models walked the meandering runway, showcasing the collection that featured everything from neon-colored amphibian, aqua-gear looks with colorful fish backpacks to letterman-style school sweaters and snow bunny looks with furry boots.
There was a sleek matte black ensemble that resembled SWAT gear, military-style suits in olive with belted coats and even brightly color Southern-belle style hoop skirts. Prints included tie-dye hues and the iconic checkered logo redone in new color patterns.
While the clothes were like Abloh â playful, colorful and vibrant â the mood was somber. During and after the show, many in the audience wiped away tears, standing to hug each other or offer a pat of comfort.
The sparse clapping at the end was awkward. Unlike most shows, no one got up to mingle or talk, but instead sat in heavy silence.
The designerâs traditional finale bow was not coming and never would again and as fireworks lit up the Miami skyline, the audience seemed painfully aware of his absence.
Instead, the show circled back to the bold hot air balloon as the designerâs voice said âlife is shortâ for âworrying about what someone thinks you can do versus knowing what you can doâ â a sort of anthem that a generation of young fans rallied behind.
Lamont Spears traveled from Atlanta just for the show, wearing a fuzzy LV monogrammed hoodie coat and a sweatshirt with Ablohâs picture.
âItâs a very sad moment, but weâve got to celebrate his life, weâve got to keep on pushing because he made a way for us to keep going, to keep being confident,â said the 35-year-old. âHe showed me that I can.â
Abloh in 2018 became the first Black man to serve as Louis Vuittonâs director of menâs wear in the French design houseâs storied history. He grew up outside of Chicago, his first-generation Ghanaian American seamstress mother teaching him to sew.
New York stylist Memsor Kamarake, who saw Ablohâs first show in Paris, flew in specifically for the final tribute, saying through tears after the fireworks, âI felt like now I can finally grieve him.â
âSo often Black folks are depicted through pain, through struggle, thatâs why it was so important for him to tap into this childlike joy,â Kamarake said.
Above a red carpet leading to an outdoor after-party, the sky lit up with red dots that danced in various configurations before coming together to say âVirgil was here.â
Abloh, who founded his own Off-White label in 2013, had a vast creative presence outside of clothing. His sculpture âDollar a Gallon,â unveiled this week during Art Basel, is a commentary on the effect of advertising on the impressionable.
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He also designed furniture for IKEA, refillable bottles for Evian and Big Mac cartons for McDonaldâs. His work was exhibited at the Louvre, the Gagosian and the Museum of Contemporary Art Chicago.
Abloh had a prominent influence in streetwear. He interned with Ye at the LVMH brand Fendi, was the rapperâs creative director and scored a Grammy nomination as art director for the 2011 Ye-Jay-Z album âWatch the Throne.â
âI think itâs going to be the most important moment ever in LV history,â said David Filipucci, a 21-year-old who traveled from the Netherlands to attend the show.
âLV for the moment is Virgil. He made it more special.â
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