Michigan frankfurter fans flock to Yesterdog

• Yesterdog has been a town fixture in East Grand Rapids since 1976 but has the feel of a '50s diner
• The eatery played a prominent role in the 1999 hit comedy 'American Pie,' but was called 'Dog Years'
• Yesterdog limits their options to six specialty dogs and a tiny selection of sides

The scene: Yesterdog has been a town fixture in East Grand Rapids since 1976, but the place looks even older than its impressive run suggests. Spanning the entire length between two blocks, its appearance depends on which end you enter: One side resembles an Old West saloon, the other a Fifties diner with hot dogs grilling visible through the window. The grill entrance has the feel of a to-go place like a pizzeria, the other end offers tons of seating stretching through two long rooms – though every seat is often taken, and you still order at the counter. The interior has heavy, worn wooden booths with marble tables, spinning chrome bar stools and the entire space is heavily decorated with vintage advertising signs, an antique jukebox and a full-sized wooden phone booth. There's also an impressively ornate mechanical cash register – though the price of our order was calculated mentally, not mechanically.

The tie-dyed t-shirts, Grateful Dead stickers, wooden booth graffiti, and friendly staff give off a happy-go-lucky vibe, but the posted "Yester Rules" are decidedly stern: "1. When entering Yesterdog PLEASE walk down to the end of the counter. Form two lines if needed. 2. We take HOT DOG orders FIRST. We start left and move right. 3. After dogs, we take drink orders, after drinks we take chip orders. 4. Once all dogs, drinks and chips are ordered, we will then begin to charge you for your order. 5. Once you are paid up you will then get your dogs on a tray or bag and seat yourself." Yesterdog does not take credit cards.

There is a certain all-American familiarity to the place, which may be cinematic déjà vu, since Yesterdog played a prominent role in the 1999 hit comedy American Pie, still spinning off sequels today. The film's writer Adam Herz attended nearby East Grand Rapids High School, from which Yesterdog still draws a loyal clientele (it's open until 2:30 a.m. nightly), but for the movie the town was renamed East Great Falls and the restaurant "Dog Years," complete with a faux awning and sign disguising it for the film.

Reason to visit: Elaborately dressed, bargain-priced hot dogs.

The food: Michigan is hot-dog crazed, from the famous Coneys of Detroit to this East Grand Rapids legend, where the emphasis is on toppings. It claims to have won "Best Hot Dog" from Grand Rapids Magazine for more than 20 consecutive years.

Yesterdog limits their options to six specialty dogs and a tiny selection of sides. The only real choice is what you like on your dog. The namesake Yesterdog has chili, onion, mustard, pickle and ketchup, and while quite messy, is middle of the road in terms of girth. The biggest is the Killerdog, which adds cheese and kraut to this impressive mix, while even the humble sounding Veggiedog is packed with every topping except chili. The least complicated offerings are the Cheddardog, with "just" chili and cheese, and the Krautdog, with kraut, pickle and mustard. The final option is the Ultradog, which is either a Yesterdog with cheese or a Killerdog without kraut, depending on your perspective. All are priced between $2 and $2.50 and many patrons try two (or more). While the toppings pack the soft buns, which are much better than the supermarket variety, the rolls and dogs themselves are normal-sized, making the result sloppy but not gigantic. The only sides are bags of potato chips and whole dill pickles.

To me the highlights are the toppings, since I grew up on New York and New England hot dogs and like a bit of snap, a crispiness to the casing that you don't find with these soft, innocuous franks. But many locals love this style, which is a matter of taste. The toppings are good by any standards, especially the unique kraut, not your regular soggy sauerkraut but rather a fresh chopped, brighter green concoction with a lot of crunch, making up for the soft wiener. The chili is meaty, and very similar to the version used for Upstate New York's regional "mini-dogs," not chunky like Texas chili or heavily spiced like the Cincinnati version. It is a topping rather than the kind of chili that would be a dish in and of itself.

The bottom line is that Yesterdog has interesting hot dog options in a unique setting, and it's a fun place to eat that is also a great bargain. Do I crave Yesterdog dogs after trying them? No. Would I go back if I were in the area? Absolutely.

What regulars say: "I really like the soft bun, it's just the right size, not too big, and the chili does not overpower it. It's good!," said Michael Patrick Shiels, the popular host of "Michigan's Big Show," the state's top drive-time, talk radio show.

Pilgrimage-worthy?: Only for huge fans of the American Pie films.

Rating: OK (Scale: Blah, OK, Mmmm, Yum!, OMG!)

Price: $ ($ cheap, $$ moderate, $$$ expensive)

Details: 1505 Wealthy Street SE, East Grand Rapids; 616-262-3090; yesterdog.com

Larry Olmsted has been writing about food and travel for more than 15 years. An avid eater and cook, he has attended cooking classes in Italy, judged a BBQ contest and once dined with Julia Child. Follow him on Twitter, @TravelFoodGuy, and if there's a unique American eatery you think he should visit, send him an e-mail at travel@usatoday.com.