The Best Retinol for Mature Skin, According to Experts

Retinol is a standout among active ingredients, and for good reason: It works. Dermatologists dispense this derivative of vitamin A to improve a multitude of concerns, be they acne, signs of aging, or both—and even over-the-counter versions can do the same, especially over time. That’s because they take a multifaceted approach. “Retinol works by a few different mechanisms to address the signs of skin aging,” says Carmen Castilla, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist in New York, NY.

Vogue’s Guide to the Best Retinol for Mature Skin

• Best Overall: SkinMedica Age Defense Retinol Complex .25, $65
• Best for Beginners: Avène RetrinAL 0.1 Intensive Cream, $79
• Best for Existing Users: SkinCeuticals Retinol Cream 1.0, $102
• Best Drugstore: RoC Retinol Correxion Line Smoothing Night Serum Capsules, $33
• Best for Brightening: Peter Thomas Roth Retinol Fusion PM Night Serum, $65
• Best for Smoothing: Skinbetter AlphaRet Overnight Cream, $140
• Best for Crow’s Feet: Dr. Dennis Gross Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Triple Correction Eye Serum, $71

In this article:

• What is retinol?
• What percent of retinol is best for aging skin?
• What to look for in a retinol for mature skin
• Meet the experts

For one, it can both increase collagen production and improve the extracellular matrix deep in the dermis, which thins with age. "A healthy extracellular matrix works together with collagen to give skin its radiance and resiliency,” she says. “You need both of these components to be healthy to improve the skin's appearance.”

And while retinol alone can be especially helpful for mature skin, which is often hallmarked by fine lines and wrinkles, age and sun spots, lax skin, and dryness, not every formula is up to the task. Read ahead for the best options according to dermatologists.

Best Overall: SkinMedica Age Defense Retinol Complex .25

• Why We Love It: The beauty of this formula is that it belongs to a line of retinol products with increasing strengths, so “you can work your way up through as your skin gets used to using retinol,” says Dr. Castilla. She also likes that it’s formulated with antioxidants to counteract free radicals—unstable molecules created by sun damage and pollution that can harm healthy collagen and elastin—as well as ingredients that offset irritation, such as ceramides and niacinamide.
• Key Ingredients: Vitamin E, niacinamide, ceramides
• Retinol Concentration: 0.25
• Size: 1.0 fl. oz.

Best Drugstore: RoC Retinol Correxion Line Smoothing Night Serum Capsules

• Why We Love It: Rather than a jar or cream, these clever capsules are fully sealed in order to preserve the freshness and therefore the potency of the retinol within—ensuring maximum efficacy. It buffers potential dryness with ceramides (a key lipid for the skin barrier) as well as dimethylmethoxy chromanol, an antioxidant closely related to vitamin E.
• Key Ingredients: Ceramides, soybean oil, dimethylmethoxy chromanol
• Retinol Concentration: Not listed
• Size: 30 capsules

Best for Beginners: Avène RetrinAL 0.1 Intensive Cream

• Why We Love It: For those new to retinol, Dr. Castilla points to this cream as a good option, since “it is gentle and unlikely to cause irritation,” she says. Plus, she adds, it also contains antioxidants to help prevent free radical damage. Instead of retinol, however, this formula uses retinaldehyde, a different derivative of vitamin A that's more closely related to retinoic acid than retinol. In other words, it's more potent—but in this formula, still not overly harsh.
• Key Ingredients: Vitamin E, peptides
• Retinol Concentration: 1.0
• Size: 1.0 fl. Oz.

Best for Existing Users: SkinCeuticals Retinol Cream 1.0

• Why We Love It: Brendan Camp, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist in New York, NY, points to this range from SkinCeuticals as a good option for those looking to steadily increase their retinol concentration, as it's available in 0.3%, 0.5%, and 1.0% concentrations. This particular formula is the most powerful of the three, and therefore a good option for those looking to pivot their retinol to one that addresses signs of aging. It's fragrance-free, and paired with brightening ingredients like niacinamide, tranexamic acid, and kojic acid–making it especially powerful for lightening dark spots.
• Key Ingredients: Niacinamide, tranexamic acid, kojic acid
• Retinol Concentration: 1.0
• Size: 1.0 fl. oz.

Best for Brightening: Peter Thomas Roth Retinol Fusion PM Night Serum

• Why We Love It: Dr. Camp points to this option as a perfect balance between efficacy and tolerability. While it has a relatively high concentration of retinol, the ingredient is microencapsulated, which allows for absorption through the upper layers of skin that’s both gentler and more gradual. This “allows for improved tolerability through the slow release of retinol into the skin,” he says. It also contains vitamins C and E, two antioxidants that work synergistically to firm skin and even out tone.
• Key Ingredients: Vitamin C, vitamin E, squalane
• Retinol Concentration: 1.5
• Size: 1.0 fl. oz.

Best for Smoothing: Skinbetter AlphaRet Overnight Cream

• Why We Love It: This beloved wrinkle cream is a favorite among dermatologists—understandably. Despite its long list of active ingredients, which include glycolic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, it's not at all irritating to skin, thanks in part to a soothing blend of bisabolol, niacinamide, and allantoin. Behind its ability to address both sun spots and wrinkles is the formula's unique AlphaRet, a combination of retinoic acid and lactic acid that can penetrate skin with irritation so minimal, it's practically nonexistent.
• Key Ingredients: Lactic acid, peptides, vitamin C
• Retinol Concentration: Not listed
• Size: 1.0 fl. oz.

Best for Crow’s Feet: Dr. Dennis Gross Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Triple Correction Eye Serum

• Why We Love It: Retinol can be irritating on skin, especially around the delicate eye area. But this gentle, lightweight gel uses “a proprietary retinol blend—including retinol-like, plant-based bakuchiol—to improve firmness and reduce the appearance of crepey skin and wrinkles,” says Dr. Camp. In fact, it’s even mild enough for the eyelids.
• Key Ingredients: Bakuchiol, rambutan, ferulic acid
• Retinol Concentration: Not disclosed
• Size: 0.5 fl. oz.

Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A, or retinoic acid. Once in the skin, it’s converted into retinoic acid, which can work on multiple levels to improve skin. “The long-term, consistent use of retinoids can increase collagen production, which helps improve the firmness of skin and the appearance of fine lines,” says Dr. Camp. They also regulate cell turnover, which can help smooth uneven skin texture, and they have “been found to aid in the correction of blemishes and sun spots,” he says.

That’s what makes retinol particularly helpful for mature skin. For one, our natural production of collagen—skin’s supportive protein, or “scaffolding”—”starts to decline as we age, starting in our 20s,” says Dr. Castilla.

Moreover, the actual layers of our skin—the epidermis, which makes up the outermost layer, and the dermis—become thinner with age. “This leads to decreased function of the skin barrier, crepiness, fragility, and increased dryness,” says Dr. Castilla. “Retinols stimulate cell production in these layers and help thicken the epidermis and increase blood supply to the dermal layer.”

Generally speaking, retinol concentrations can range between 0.025 to 1%. “When starting out, a good rule is to use the lowest percentage—especially for dry or sensitive skin types,” says Dr. Castilla.

That’s because “retinol can be associated with side effects like skin irritation, redness, and flaking,” Dr. Camp says. So, in beginning with a lower concentration and starting with less frequent application—such as once or twice a week—you may be able to better tolerate it.

Then, once you’re able to tolerate a given concentration, you can consider increasing it for even better benefits. “Those who have already been using retinol regularly or who do not have skin sensitivity issues may benefit from products with higher concentrations of retinol, such as 0.5 to 1.0%,” says Dr. Camp.

First, consider the type of retinoid you’re using. (A point of nuance: Retinoid is the umbrella term for all vitamin A derivatives, including retinol, but also refers to prescription-level forms.) There’s a lot of variation between the retinoids available over-the-counter. For instance, “retinal is different from retinol because it does not need to undergo the same number of conversion steps to form the active compound retinoic acid,” says Dr. Camp. “As such, retinal products may offer more potency than those that contain retinol.”

On the other hand, “retinyl esters, such as retinyl acetate or palmitate, are less irritating—but also likely less effective,” says Dr. Castilla. This may work in your favor if you have very sensitive skin, but the results may be underwhelming if you don’t have concerns about tolerability.

Consider the concentration as well. For one, each retinoid molecule is different, so “you can not compare concentrations between different products,” says Dr. Castilla. “They are all different strengths when compared at the same concentration.” For instance, a 0.025% retinol is different from tretinoin at 0.025%. So, once you determine the retinoid you prefer, then factor in the concentration. (The recommendations we share above are for retinol specifically.)

And finally, it also helps to look for a formula that you enjoy using, because retinol is very much a long game. “You may start to see signs of improvement about 12 weeks after starting to use retinols consistently,” says Dr. Castilla. “However, the true benefit is consistent use over years.”

• Carmen Castilla, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in New York, NY.
• Brendan Camp, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in New York, NY.