Palm Springs is always a good idea. That’s the phrase that loops through my head as I leave Los Angeles to make the two-and-a-half-hour drive east. Urban sprawl gives way to distant snow-covered ridges, the jagged edges of the Sonoran Desert stretch ahead, and a million verdant palm trees beckon in the breeze. I round a bend, and—like the painted backdrop of an old Western movie or a fever dream induced by the best hallucinogens you’ve ever had—the impossibly steep San Jacinto mountains suddenly rise against a clear, wide sky the blue-green color of chlorine. It’s surreal; pristine. Yes, Palm Springs is always a good idea, the scenery seems to agree.
And it turns out Palm Springs has never been better. Long before Hollywood stars like Frank Sinatra, Elvis, and Marilyn Monroe made it an iconic resort escape, the city held a singular appeal. Over 2,000 years ago, the Cahuilla people settled around the valley’s improbable freshwater lakes, creeks, and hot springs, living off an abundance of native California fan palms. Later, Spanish explorers would call the area La Palma de la Mano de Dios: “the palm of God’s hand.” And, now, thanks to a cultural renaissance that juxtaposes the region’s jaw-dropping landscapes with a wealth of art and design, Palm Springs is drawing a whole new set of seekers and aesthetes.
“Palm Springs went through a rough period in the late ‘80s and ‘90s,” explains designer and hotelier Steven Hermann, who grew up in neighboring Riverside. “It became almost abandoned and people didn’t appreciate its mid-century architecture—everyone started building new Spanish-style track houses in nearby cities, and there was no economic incentive to build in Palm Springs.” As a result, the town’s plethora of mid-century architecture was left deliciously intact. “Now, there is more original mid-century modern architecture here than probably anywhere in the world.”
The city’s stellar examples of mid-century modern architecture include works by Richard Neutra, John Lautner, and Donald Wexler, and have become such a draw that there is even a bi-annual festival dedicated to exploring its history. Palm Springs Modernism Week, which takes place each February and October, offers many hundreds of design-themed tours, lectures, and events, as well as glimpses inside the city’s most iconic homes. Last year, the festival drew over 100,000 people; this year, attendance is only expected to grow.
While the city has always offered an abundance of stylish mid-century hotels and vacation rentals, the ever-growing interest in the city’s historic architecture has also heralded a fresh new crop of properties—ones that take a decidedly sophisticated approach. Nowhere is that more evident than at the recently opened Hermann Bungalows, a 24-suite luxury hotel tucked within the William Cody-designed L’Horizon Resort and Spa.
Featuring post-and-beam construction inspired by Richard Neutra and accented by exterior stone walls, each low-lying bungalow is furnished with original pieces from designers like Mario Bellino and Pierre Jeanrette. There are Venetian terrazzo floors, Calacatta marble surfaces in the bathrooms, and Italian fluted walnut wood on the walls. Floor-to-ceiling windows and private patios—some with their own jacuzzis and outdoor showers—offer wide-open views over the central infinity pool and the San Jacintos beyond.
“There are exquisite details everywhere you look,” Hermann explains. “It could have conceivably been designed and built in the 1950s, but it provides all of the amenities that a modern luxury hotel would require—the vibe is effortless, relaxing, and pampering.” And a design lover’s dream: along with all that envy-inducing furniture, vintage and contemporary art culled from local dealers decorate each room.
A stone’s throw away, the recently-renovated 14-room Azure Sky offers an equally appealing—if slightly more accessible—approach. Originally built in 1959, the classic mid-century modern motel has been thoughtfully appointed with custom details in soothing desert hues. Blonde wood and stonework accent the lobby and guest rooms, while details such as floating platform beds, wall paneling, and blue-green mosaic tiles lend contemporary-meets-retro appeal. Outside, the property’s two courtyards feature multiple fire pits, a lounge pool and jacuzzi, and plenty of chaise lounges from which to take in the views. “Our goal was to interpret the MCM style into a form that is livable today,” explains designer Anne L’Esperance.
Not that mid-century modern is Palm Springs’ only aesthetic attraction. This March, Desert X returns after a pandemic-induced hiatus with immersive installations by globally celebrated artists such as Chicago-born Torkwase Dyson and New Haven-based Tschabalala Self scattered throughout the Coachella Valley. And, at the gorgeous Sensei Porcupine Creek, a new luxury wellness retreat tucked within the foothills of the Santa Rosa Mountains, a museum-worthy permanent collection of contemporary art and sculpture mingles with world-class mindset, nutrition, golf, yoga, and fitness offerings. “We want to immerse our guests in the healing properties the desert landscape is known for,” Alexandra Walterspiel, COO of Sensei explains.
As I wander the 230-acre property taking in the larger-than-life sculptures by Robert Indiana, Keith Haring, and Yoshimoto Nara, the desert sun glimmers on the fuchsia bougainvillea that line the path. I head to lunch at the property’s wellness-focused Nobu restaurant—where I’ve been told there’s a special cake made with locally-grown dates—and a trio of egrets soars overhead. The sky is that same surreal shade of blue-green. Yup, Palm Springs is always a good idea, I think again.
