Welcome to Vogue’s first-ever spa guide—a compendium of the 100 best spas worldwide, pulling from the expertise of our global editors. There is a lot out there in the world of wellness, and we are here to sort the cryo from the cold plunge, the infrared light treatment from the IV infusion. Or if your path is a more holistic one—there’s something for you here as well.
Why go here?
The Vair Spa at Borgo Egnazia encapsulates the traditions and passions of Puglia’s people. “Vair” means “true” in the dialect of the area and reflects the purpose of the spa: helping people find their true selves. The staff at Borgo Egnazia are “artists of wellness” and, as such, the treatments are not the conventional ones—you’re more likely to find treatments honoring the power of olive oil or the strength of the sea breeze. At Vair Spa, you will enjoy a fully bespoke intimate experience that is about much more than wellness.
What’s the vibe?
Located in the heart of Borgo Egnazia, a beautiful Puglian resort surrounded by ancient olive trees, Vair Spa welcomes you with hundreds of candles that stay lit all day and night. Materials are raw and natural: stone, wood, huge lemons in the center of the tables, ceramic everywhere. (The nearby town of Fasano is known for its handmade ceramics.) The cabins for treatments are minimalistic but fully equipped, while the wet area is inspired by Roman thermal baths, offering a particular kind of quiet. The staff are caring, attentive, and very passionate about their work.
The history?
The brainchild of Melpignano’s parents played a crucial role in establishing the region as a tourist destination back in the ’90s. Borgo Egnazia is the next chapter in that effort. So elegantly weathered are the rooms and suites, that the hotel has the feel of a place that has been around decades, if not centuries. In fact, the resort was built from the ground up in 2010—as noted in an earlier Vogue review, architect Pino Brescia purportedly took chisel to the new walls to give them a more authentically antique patina—with the idea of recreating a traditional small town in Puglia. The spa is definitely the pulsing heart of that town. And today, it’s run by Aldo and Camilla Melpignano.
What should you try?
You may try “Affascenè” which evokes the name of “affascino,” a traditional ritual similar to undoing the Greek “evil eye.” When people insincerely compliment you, it can ostensibly cast a kind of headache-causing curse; enter the Puglia nonna, who knows how to remove it. A particular treatment is dedicated to this tradition, focusing on the head and face, and using movements, aromatic oils, and gestures that are inspired by the “affascino” in order to relieve any tension from the head or shoulders. Another lovely treatment is “fruscè” which translates to “rustle”—or the sound the olive trees make when they sway with the sea breeze. The treatment involves very delicate gestures, as though there were wind sweeping over your skin.
How environmentally friendly is it?
The Vair Spa uses only local products, and ingredients are natural and simple. Even doing a manicure involves natural local products: a scrub with salt and lemon, and then olive oil to hydrate.
What else do we need to know?
You can also book a full retreat called “Tarant,” which takes local tradition to the next level. According to Puglian custom, a tarantula bite is best treated by invoking the whole community, which engages in dancing, singing, and caring for whoever was bitten to release the venom. Over four days, this journey of self-discovery involves tailor-made treatments and traditional dancing workshops (no spiders necessary). The last treatment is an hour and a half spent lying on a mattress while a masseuse follows the rhythm of Puglian music to make you “dance” on the treatment bed, as though exorcising any “venom.” (An ancient interpretation of the modern-day stress epidemic?) It’s a deep and meaningful experience.
Who can go?
Anyone can visit Vair. I suggest booking in for the Tarant retreat with a friend. It’s the perfect experience to share with someone you care about.
Booking details for Vair Spa
Address: Strada Comunale Egnazia, 72015 Savelletri di Fasano BR, Italy
Read more from Vogue’s Global Spa Guide.