France Has Its Own Fjords, and They’re Turquoise

When one thinks of the Cote d’Azur, they might conjure images of luxury yachts bobbing along the coast of Saint Tropez, actors strutting down the Croisette of Cannes, or the beau monde risking it all at the grand casinos of Monaco. But if you veer eastward, towards the humble port town of Marseille, you’ll discover the South of France’s best kept secret: rugged, limestone rocks opening up to pools of turquoise waters in mini, fjord-like formations known as calanques. The cliffs of Calanques National Park, situated in the middle of Marseille and the charming fishing town of Cassis, give way to panoramic, salt-sprayed hikes interrupted by secluded, refreshing dips. This patch of craggy coastline is what European summer is meant to be, where wild beauty trumps pricey beach clubs. But getting to know the landscape requires a bit of planning ahead.

The Calanques National Park is open 24 hours a day, seven days a week, and entrance is free. That being said, during the summer months of June to September, you’ll have to keep a daily watch on whether or not the park is closed due to fire danger. The park’s peri-urban location and arid, Mediterranean climate make an unwelcome combo for forest fires. Every day between 5 and 6 pm, officials assess the weather conditions for the following day and make a decision, which you can access through the My Calanques app.

Certain areas of the Calanques experience heavy foot traffic in the summer, and for this reason, you might need to make a reservation beforehand. The popular sites of Calanques de Sugiton and Pierres Tombées in particular have been victims of significant erosion, and in order to prevent this, the park asks that you make a free reservation every day from June 29 to September 1; September 7 and 8; and September 14 and 15, 2024. You can book as early as three days ahead of your visit and up to 6 pm the night before.

The park is beautifully bare-boned, meaning you won’t find much in terms of toilets, food stands, or waste bins on the trails or beaches, so pack a fair share of water and snacks, making sure to discard your trash once you’re back in town. Though not the most sexy form of footwear, water shoes are a great idea, as you’ll find that many of the beaches contain rocky sands. How much time you’d like to spend at the park is entirely up to you; you can get a pretty worthwhile snapshot in a few hours, or spend three days hiking it in its entirety.

There are three ways to get to Calanques National Park: from Marseille, Cassis, or La Ciotat.

You can get to the calanques of Callelongue, Sormiou, Morgiou, and Sugiton by car, but the park recommends leaving your vehicle behind, as there are no official parking lots and space is limited. Consider opting for public transport instead.

From Marseille, take the RTM bus to any number of entrances, like Sugiton (B1) or Morgiou (22). Cassis is an excellent entry point for visiting the west of the Calanques range and the Cap Canaille area. Take the bus line M01, which will get you to about a 30-minute walk from the park, near the Port-Miou calanque. La Ciotat, a seaside village famous for being the birthplace of pétanque, is another option if you’re keen on exploring the eastern section of the park; just grab a Ciotabus. Line 30 will take you to the Mugel and Figuerolles calanques.

If you’d like to explore the landscape by sea, head to the Old Port and book a tour with Icard Maritime, a half-day excursion that will take you from Marseille to the bay of Cassis, passing through the calanques of Sormiou, Morgiou, Sugiton, En Vau, Port-Pin, and Port-Miou.

The Calanques National Park stretches over 200 square miles, with 26 calanques (25 in Marseille, one in Cassis). Here’s your cheat sheet for the very best of them.

Named after the Aleppo pines that line its cliffs, Port-Pin is the most accessible calanque from the Cassis peninsula, reachable in just about a half hour. If you’re pressed on time, you can enjoy a day’s swim in the crystal clear waters of this inlet. But with ease comes popularity, so make sure you arrive early to snag a towel spot.

Another crowd favorite, Sugiton boasts two small pebble beaches, bounded by high cliffs. Start your trek from the pine forests of Luminy estate, then make your way up to the Tour d’Orient, a lookout point perched at an altitude of about 800 feet. The site of a former military watchtower, Tour d’Orient offers some of the best views of the national park in its entirety.

Sormiou is the largest calanque in Marseille. Get there from the Baumettes or La Cayolle car park and plan to walk for about an hour until you reach the large, turquoise cove, surrounded by panoramic views of mountains and cabanons, small houses that appeared at the beginning of the 20th century to store fishing boats.

The Calanque de Morgiou is steeped in history. King Louis XIII visited in 1622 to attend a pêche à la madrague, an old tradition of net fishing for tuna, and you can still walk down the steps that were cut into stone for his visit. The water is deeper here, ideal for scuba diving. Don’t leave without exploring Cosquer Cave, an underwater grotto containing cave drawings dating back over 28,000 years.

Perhaps the most photogenic calanque, En-Vau boasts towering white cliffs that bookend a turquoise blue cove. Get there on a scenic hike by way of Port-Pin, and make the most of this natural paradise by rock climbing, kayaking, or, if you’re lucky, saying hello to the few wild boar that occasionally pass by.

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