The California Town That's a Rural Queer Haven—Lazy River Included

When most San Franciscans venture into wine country, they do so for, well, wine. Nestled in the sky-high redwood forest closer to the Sonoma County coast though is one particularly pastoral slice of paradise that marches to the beat of its own drum. Guerneville is an eclectic little town that—while home to the Korbel Champagne winery—feels worlds apart from the rest of California wine country. A far cry from the swanky stylings of Healdsburg, or the see-and-be-seen shenanigans of Napa, Guerneville is a small community that feels decidedly hippier, and as evidenced by the surplus of omnipresent rainbow flags, a whole lot gayer. 

Due to its location in the redwoods, Guerneville emerged, practically overnight, as a logging town to meet the demands of Gold Rush-era San Francisco to the south. Originally nicknamed “Stumptown,” for the mass amounts of redwood stumps left in the wake of loggers, it didn’t take long for savvy city-dwellers to get wise to the wooded oasis. After preservationists, like Colonel James Boydston Armstrong, came to the defense of these gentle giants and stopped the rampant logging of these natural wonders, the area evolved from a community rooted in industry to one rooted in recreation. Around the turn of the century, “Vacation Wonderland” began attracting visitors from throughout the Bay Area, drawn to its quiet serenity, its sky-scraping forests, its coastal proximity, and the crystalline Russian River weaving its way through, lined with makeshift beaches.

Naturally, as Guerneville’s bucolic reputation rose alongside San Francisco’s LGBTQIA+ population, it didn’t take long for the two worlds to intersect. Especially in the summer months, the small town became a bastion for queer city-dwellers in search of fresh air, free from homophobia and political rhetoric that was unavoidable in the big city. Eventually, some of said queers began planting their own roots here, opening businesses and calcifying the town as the sanctuary it is today. While much of the rest of Sonoma County grew into a thriving wine-making community, Guerneville maintained and fostered its bohemian spirit, prioritizing inclusive havens, outdoor recreation, and queer-owned businesses. Today, Guerneville is gayer than ever, teeming with evergreen rainbow flags and popular annual events like Lazy Bear Week. There’s still plenty of quality wine here, of course, but Guerneville, more than ever, is the quintessentially queer summer retreat of your dreams.

1 hour and 50 minutes from San Francisco

Come summer, festival season is in full-swing throughout Sonoma County, with music events and county fairs taking place practically every weekend. One particular event swaps jazz bands and carnival rides for burly men bulging out of their barely-there swim trunks. Lazy Bear Week is an annual event that draws big crowds to the river in late July or early August. Originated in 1996, and populated by pool parties and DJ sets, the event is all about body positivity and inclusivity, and all proceeds go to the Lazy Bear Fund, a non-profit that supports clinics, schools, and food banks. This year, Lazy Bear takes place July 29-August 5, offering a full slate of queer events and parties that appeal to every type of attendee, whether you prefer group hikes in the redwoods, musical bingo, morning coffee socials, outdoor movie nights, or clothing-optional pool parties. It’s a veritable choose-your-own-adventure, and there’s truly something for everyone. Keep your eyes peeled on Lazy Bear’s events page for this year’s roster. And don't forget to head back to the river for Russian River Pride, which takes place every September in Guerneville. 

Around Guerneville, “beach days” are less about heading to the ocean and more about frolicking in your own front yard. Although the town is an easy—and wildly scenic—20 minute-drive from the ocean, the real “beach” here is the Russian River. The same river that zigzags through wine country is the one that’s long provided warm-weather reprieve, via sandy beaches and aquatic activities like tubing, kayaking, and paddle boarding. Monte Rio Community Beach and Johnson’s Beach are the two main attractions in Guerneville, with nearby outfitters that are fully stocked with rentals for beach chairs, umbrellas, and whatever paddle sport you’re looking to indulge.

This being Sonoma County, wine is part of the cultural DNA. But this being Guerneville, said wine is also gay AF. Such is the magic of Equality Vines, a tasting room co-owned by Matt Grove and Jim Obergefell, the latter a civil rights icon who helped legalize same-sex marriage nationwide as the lead plaintiff in the 2015 Obergefell v. Hodges case. Here, amidst a collection of queer-centric art and alongside a gay-owned art gallery on Main Street, altruistic oenophiles can sip wine for a good cause. Equality Vines works with Sonoma winemakers to produce labels like Love Wins sparkling wine, Rosé the Riveter, and Stonewall Zinfandel, with proceeds from each pour going to different local nonprofits. The latest label to hit the shelf is Gems, a sparkling set of four wines owned by Real Housewives alum Heather Dubrow, with proceeds from each one going to Family Equality.

Considering its location in the mighty redwood forest, the tallest trees on Earth are—quite rightfully—a star in their own right. But rather than log them, visitors nowadays hike amongst them, or even soar through their canopy. For the latter, Sonoma Zipline Adventures takes daredevils up into the trees for an adrenaline-fueled romp through the wilderness. Between zipline runs, some of which are so long that you can’t even see the end of through the forest, groups convene on massive platforms anchored high up in the trees, before eventually belaying down the side of one of the behemoths. Closer to earth, hiking is another popular way to experience the awe-inspiring beauty of the redwood forest. Conveniently accessible to Guerneville’s Main Street, Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve is a great place to get up close and personal with these colossal conifers, which can reach 16-feet wide, 350-feet tall, and live for 2,000 years. The park is lined with self-guided nature trails, including the popular Pioneer Nature Trail, which leads to the oldest tree in the reserve—the Colonel Armstrong Tree—at 1,400 years old.

While shopping in certain parts of Sonoma County might be a leisurely activity best reserved for the 1%, Guerneville is still the bohemian little gay town it’s always been. And that means treasure-hunting at thrift stores galore. For a community of barely 3,500 people, the town certainly boasts an impressive abundance of thrift shops, peddling everything from vintage band tees to grandma’s china. Right on Main Street, River Queen is an eccentric trove of bits and baubles, and from crystals and cutting boards to sun hats and Lazy Bear-ready swim trunks, you never know what you might find on the shelves and racks. Up the block, Fife Creek Antiques & Collectibles specializes in Mid-Century finds and all manner of Americana ephemera. Basically, if you’re on the hunt for both vintage carousel props and mermaid bookends, this is the place. For clothes and accessories, Rio Rio is a great go-to. Located on Main Street, the second-floor boutique slings some serious style, from needle-point jackets to patched Levi’s jeans (which are having a moment this summer).
 

All summer long, Guerneville offers live entertainment fit for the whole fam. Rio Nido Roadhouse is a popular pastime, renowned for its all-ages shows and picture-perfect outdoor setting (BYO lawn chairs), with genres that run the gamut from reggae to violinists. Elsewhere, Main Street Bistro & Piano Bar is a jazzy staple on Main Street—the longest-running acoustic music venue north of San Francisco, in fact. Further out on the coast, Tasting by the Sea is a cozy cottage-like wine bar that features an all-local wine list, outdoor fire pits, and periodic live music with an oceanic backdrop that can’t be beat. And don’t miss Jerry Knights Historic River Theater, a longstanding Guerneville cornerstone that started as a movie house in the 1940s before hosting iconic acts like Frank Sinatra and the Jerry Garcia Band. Today, a more-recent makeover added a sizable dancefloor and state-of-the-art lighting and sound systems.

For more shopping, including the edible kind, head 25 minutes southeast to the city of Sebastopol. The Barlow is a dreamy complex of eateries, breweries, markets, and storefronts, sprawled across 12 acres. The whole thing is a lot to take in, functioning somewhere between a super-sized farmers’ market and a food hall, along with activities, events, and artisanal wares by local makers. Numerous shops sell everything from olive oil and art to jewelry, handbags, chic throw pillows, and intricate glassware. Restaurants and bars are equally myriad, including breweries, a cider spot, oysters, and of course, wine. For the latter, Region. is a unique wine bar concept that allows customers to pour their own on-tap Sonoma wines, and learn about local vino at winemaker happy hours and dinners. A fun new addition at The Barlow is The Rewind Arcade, the first retro arcade bar in the county, stocked with vintage pinball machines, a pour-your-own beer wall, and Japanese snacks.

In the morning, rise and shine with coffee and pastries at Baked on the River, a homey cafe with garden seating and a lengthy menu of sweets and savories, like Scones ‘n’ Gravy, Salmon Chowder, Frosted Bundt Cakes, and Swedish Meatballs. Further down the river, in adjoining Monte Rio, Lightwave Cafe channels a rustic general store motif, with a Middle Eastern-leaning menu of Shakshuka, Burekas, and Laffa flatbreads with eggplant, egg, and tahini.

Considering the natural abundance of seasonal ingredients, from both land and sea, quality food is easy to come by in Guerneville. And perhaps nowhere is this more evident than at Boon Eat + Drink, a perpetually busting bistro owned by Guerneville’s resident star chef, Crista Luedtke. Located right on Main Street, and marked by an unmissable line of diners, the restaurant serves artful plates—think Chili-braised Pork Shoulder with Ricotta Salata, or Polenta Lasagna with Rainbow Chard—in an intimate, gallery-like space. Down the block, Luedtke also recently unveiled Road Trip, a restaurant rooted in a sense of adventure and spontaneity. The travel-inspired menu offers crafty fare like Banh Mi Panzanella, Kimchi Quesadillas, and Texas BBQ flatbreads heaped with pulled pork.

Another stalwart dinner option is Boho Manor, a vintage-inspired inn and restaurant in Monte Rio, which channels Gatsby-era vibes in a dining room that looks like it would feel right at home in the Clue board game. The menu is classic, simple, and fresh, with items like Crab Cakes, Clam Chowder, and Grilled Pork Chops, and there’s also a bar area for local wine and stiff cocktails.

Back on the main drag, El Barrio is a hip, dimly lit bourbon and mezcal bar with a curated menu of top-shelf spirits and pitch-perfect cocktails. In addition to nearly a dozen house margaritas, the bar makes a mean Manhattan.

Next door, Rainbow Cattle Co. is a community keystone that’s been kicking since 1979. Essentially a gay dive bar, the saloon-like watering hole is a beloved Guerneville fixture, with a rainbow-clad facade that’s come to single-handedly symbolize Guerneville’s Main Street. For decades, locals and visitors alike have flocked here for friendly service, billiard games, and cheap drinks (or at least cheap by Sonoma standards). At its core, altruism has always been an integral key to Rainbow Cattle Co.’s endurance—the bar hosts a weekly Giveback Tuesday program, where proceeds benefit different charities in the area.

If you enjoyed the food at Boon, just wait until you try breakfast in bed at Boon Hotel + Spa. Located up the road, just outside of Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve, Luedtke’s 14-room boutique retreat feels like a bougie adults-only summer camp, complete with glamping tents, the “Boonito” camper, a heated saline pool, spacious rooms equipped with fireplaces and record players, and a poolside “honor bar” where guests are welcome to pour themselves a glass of wine or mix themselves a DIY cocktail for the adjoining hot tub. Each morning, too, breakfast trays are delivered to guests, loaded up with soft-boiled eggs and muffins.

For a hot tub with a river view, book a stay at Boho Manor, where the Gilded Age-style inn offers a riverside jacuzzi as one of its amenities, along with stately rooms, deck chairs, fire pits, yoga classes, and a spa.

If glamping and adult summer camp are the vibe you’re after, then pitch your tent at The Highlands, the latest boutique venture under Luedtke’s umbrella. Flanked by redwoods, the adults-only property features a swimming pool, continental breakfast, a lobby stocked with wine and snacks, and comfy cabins, rooms, and in the summer months, glamping tents.

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