Once upon a time, resort was aimed at the stylish nomads of café society; today it must speak to so-called latte girls and their ilk. Is it any wonder, then, that this season, which sits longest on the selling floor, has become something of a grab bag? Designers are tasked with anticipating the needs of customers who might be chasing the sun or snow while simultaneously hoping to sparkle at year-end events. It’s a big remit and a vague one that’s further complicated by a challenging social and economic environment.
Ballasting almost all of the collections Vogue Runway reviewed this season was denim—jeans, in particular. The options are many, and while the fuller leg remains, there’s definitely a movement toward a slimmer leg and higher waist. That last characteristic connects with the boho narrative that’s weaving early-aughts nostalgia (think Sienna Miller) with the original hippie icon Anita Pallenberg, who is the subject of a recent documentary.
At Valentino, newly appointed creative director Alessandro Michele dreamed up a massive Avant les Débuts collection that looked back at Pallenberg’s times but from a different angle. He referenced the house founder Valentino Garavani’s 1968 all-white couture collection while other designers were thinking of the space-age fashions of the mid-1960s.
Elevating things, though not taking them out of this world, were Erdem Moralioglu, Gucci’s Sabato De Sarno, and Maria Grazia Chiuri of Christian Dior, who incorporated demi-couture-level craft into their collections. As at the haute couture shows, pearl embellishments were especially popular. Also much in evidence were animal prints; the holidays are going to be wild with all of the leopard-print faux furs and ponyskin toppers on offer. These jackets and coats might warm a shoulder or two, left elegantly bare by the season’s more revealing dresses. Transparent skirts and pants, often worn with briefs or maillots, are another seasonal development.
Deconstruction continues to be trendy. Metaphorically, this technique of turning things inside out, exposing seams, and juxtaposing garments atop one another mirrors the unrest in the world at large. In a jumper or boilersuit, you’ll be prepared to take action as needed.
The Olympics have shed a golden light on fashion’s athleisure/streetwear obsession. The Games, of course, originated in Greece, and designers are draping and twisting fabric into shapes recognizable from marble sculptures of ancient times, as well as nodding to the precedents set by Madame Grès and Madeleine Vionnet. Again, there is some overlap here with couture, where Dior’s Chiuri explored similar ground, concentrating on freeing the natural body from constriction. Also doing their part for freedom of movement and a sense of ease: resort’s bubble hems and puff sleeves and pant legs.
Denim: The Fabric of Our Lives
Designers are true to blue (and white) denim.
Like a Rolling Stone
Anita Pallenberg proves to be the eternal boho muse.
It’s a Mod World
Space-age silver and cookie-cutter sheaths recall the swinging ’60s.
Worked Up
Intricate embroidery and jewellike beading elevated resort collections.
Spot On
Animal prints retain their bite.
Twin Peaks
The bare shoulder adds elegance to resort looks.
Look-See
Sheer skirts and pants reveal the seductive side of the season.
Construction Zone
Designers reveal the tricks of their trade with exposed seams, unfinished edges, and other unexpected juxtapositions.
Ground Control
Jumpsuits are resort’s preferred one-and-done option.
Sporty Spice
Olympics fever—or at least spectator spirit—is reflected in a focus on athleisure.
Do the Twist
Draping and wrapping result in neoclassical looks.
Isn’t It Swell?
Bubble hems, balloon sleeves, and puff-leg pants pump up resort fashion’s volume.
